KLE

High quality cooking

When Zineb “Zizi” Hattab redefined vegan fine dining at Zurich’s “Kle” five years ago, the reaction was one of pleasant surprise: plant-based, seasonal, radically creative – and yet comforting, approachable, and perfectly balanced. Today, following two additional openings (“Dar”, “Cor”), the “Kle” on Zweierstrasse remains her culinary flagship. It has undoubtedly grown more refined, but its soul remains unchanged, and executive chef Alessandro Scaccia faithfully continues the established vision. This does mean that many of the dishes are already familiar from last year’s menu – though they remain outstanding regardless. We begin with a trio of dips that whet the appetite: hummus with ras el-hanout, a fruity-spicy kosho mayo, and a rich tomato-pine nut spread, accompanied by the legendary “Chüssibrot,” baked on a griddle – no wonder guests ask for refills and the kitchen gladly complies. Next, two asparagus preparations complement each other beautifully: a Mediterranean-seasoned tostada featuring asparagus cream, thyme, rosemary, garlic, a nut spread, and poached white asparagus; and a green asparagus tempura paired with a light mint-yogurt dip. A standout is the ocean-kissed, savory “Aguachile” with ginger and nori, served alongside roasted kohlrabi and a kohlrabi-potato purée. The hot dog in sweet potato brioche with tofu sausage, ketchup, and fried onions embodies that same comfort-food appeal, as do the superb tortellini with olive filling and a deceptively realistic cashew “panna.” Far less successful is the main course: lion’s mane mushroom, apple, cauliflower foam, and parsley mayo – too soft, too creamy, and too heavy, with the apple tasting distinctly out of place. To finish, the meal comes together once more: a pistachio ganache with cookie dough, raspberry gel, and salted caramel crackers brings the evening to a satisfying close.