Gault&Millau — 19
A surprising vegetarian round to start. The best (and most expensive) from the sea. And then the hearty meat indulgence! Philippe Chevrier, host since 1989 (!) at the impressive Domaine de Châteauvieux just outside Geneva, masters every discipline with playful ease and infectious cheerfulness. At his stove: the new head chef François Periers, supported by 15 (!) cooks. They are certainly needed. It doesn't stop at the excellent, extensive tasting menu. A massive à la carte selection is also available. In autumn, the chef is particularly unleashed: "La Chasse" features a simply magnificent "Lièvre à la royale" as the signature dish.
Three playful amuse-bouches to start, followed by a beetroot tartare with horseradish from the garden – is Chevrier turning into a vegetarian chef in his later years? "It's Veggie Week in Geneva and we're joining in," the chef reassures. Naturally, he masters this discipline as well. But he feels more at home by the sea: spiny lobster on the griddle! The noble crayfish was caught in Norway, its claws wrapped in crispy gyoza, and the sauce delights: a summer-light mayonnaise with lovage, yuzu, tomatoes, and buckwheat. Anyone who enjoys spiny lobsters will also love lobster. It also finds its way into the generously composed tasting menu. "Blue lobster from Brittany on the barbecue." The presentation is stunning: mini vegetables, mini pasta (farfalle), lobster meat playfully concealed as a "mimosa" inside the claw, accompanied by a "minestrone de légumes," which is actually more of a clear consommé that gets a truly special kick thanks to Thai ginger; we enthusiastically poured ourselves more several times. Between the spiny lobster and the lobster, the Saint-Pierre fillet from Brittany paired perfectly with a surprising verbena-citronella sauce.
Enter Esteban Valle Trujillo, Soufflé King and GaultMillau's "Host of the Year 2024". This time, the maître d'hôtel rolled a Japanese mini-grill to the table and finished the lamb cutlets from L'Adret in the Auvergne over premium Binchotan charcoal. A cutlet never arrives alone chez Chevrier: Alongside it came a piece of lamb loin, the filet mignon, and even the braised lamb shoulder, lovingly stuffed into small cannelloni; the rich lamb jus accompanied the meat and was drizzled in generous portions over the fine potato mousseline. An alternative to the grand lamb dissection: a pork chop from "Monsieur Chappuis" in Lussery-Villars near Lausanne, the pig farmer favored by top chefs. His animals roam freely, eat first-class feed, and accordingly, the quality is remarkably high.
In summer, lunch or dinner at the Domaine de Châteauvieux is particularly enchanting. Dining takes place on the magical terrace overlooking the Geneva vineyards. That six gentlemen are seated at the adjacent table in shorts bothers no one; at 31.5 degrees Celsius in the shade, a special dress code applies. An impressive wine list, featuring the best of Switzerland as well. Cigar lounge.