SAAM restaurant

After three years of intensive commitment to restaurant SAAM, head chef Margot Janse has since stepped down. Her culinary expertise in South African cuisine has been firmly woven into SAAM's kitchen, where it is fused with Dutch cooking techniques. The restaurant is now led by chef Jasper Hermans and maître/sommelier Bjorn van Aalst. It was bustling throughout on the evening of our visit, and somewhat loud due to suboptimal acoustics. The menu features a five-course tasting menu that can also be ordered vegetarian, with options to extend it. We go all the way. A beautiful dish of lightly seared scallops with a crispy fennel lattice and dill sauce, paired surprisingly not with a South African wine but with an aromatic and fresh French Domaine des 3 Dames Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly. And the perfectly prepared langoustine with crispy pork belly and an unforgettable addition of mebos (South African dried and candied apricots) is accompanied by a slightly saline Spanish La Choza de Callejuela Blanco, explained by the enthusiastic wine expert Bjorn. For the signature lacquered eggplant with Cape curry, ginger, and sorghum (a South African grain), a glass of Western Cape Saurwein Pinot Noir is presented, featuring red fruit aromas and a hint of spice. All served wines offer exemplary value for money. The courses build beautifully in flavor and follow one another smoothly. The service team rotates frequently at our table. We can't quite put our finger on it, but we feel that a bit more calm and continuity could elevate the evening's experience to a higher level. That would also better justify the high bill. Drops to 88.

Located on the banks of the Amstel, SAAM restaurant tells the story of a fusion between two culinary worlds and a unique, high-level collaboration. South Africa-based co-owner and signature chef Margot Janse sets the overarching culinary direction, while daily kitchen operations are led by owner Jasper Hermans. Co-owner Bjorn van Aalst serves as maître sommelier, and alongside Koen van der Plas, curates the extensive wine list, which features not only a comprehensive selection of South African wines but also exquisite bottles from the Loire, Burgundy, and Mosel regions. The vibrant interior reflects the colorful South African culture through organic shapes, abundant wood, a spectrum of yellow hues, and ample space dedicated to local artists and entrepreneurs. For instance, chandeliers designed by South African artist David Krynauw hang above the open kitchen, locally sourced skincare products from Montagu’s boutique brand Fijn Botanicals are displayed, and cutlery rests in containers crafted from sustainably harvested wood from the Amsterdamse Bos. Culinarily, SAAM restaurant blends honest, pure Dutch ingredients with the vibrant flavors and innovative techniques of South Africa. Even before the meal begins, during the aperitif—a Mariëtte Méthode Cap Classique from the Breede Kloof Valley—we savor delicious roasted koeks with tomato chutney and mushroom toast drizzled with braai oil. The Chenin Blanc from The Mentors in Swartland, offering notes of ripe mango and pear with a refreshing acidity, pairs beautifully with lightly seared white tuna served alongside fresh and fermented mango and a pink pepper krupuk. The main course also leaves a lasting impression: perfectly cooked venison accompanied by caramelized nuts, a rich red wine sauce, elaborate layered pommes Anna, Cecina de León, and biltong. We even take home some traditional rusk to enjoy with breakfast. Overall, it is a flavorful journey that transcends borders and celebrates cultural connections. Newly ranked at number 82 in this guide’s Top 100.

Chefs Jasper Hermans (formerly of Aan de Poel), Thomas Kooijman (from Mos), and (creative advisor) Margot Janse – a Dutch chef who has been working in South Africa for years – are behind the kitchen at Saam and present a blend of Dutch and South African gastronomy. This top team is complemented by sommelier Koen van der Plas (formerly of Inter Scaldes), who guarantees an impressive wine list and expert guidance. It is a pleasure to step into the greenhouse-like space, which is decorated in a cosmopolitan style with tasteful South African furniture and artwork. Notable are the high-top tables where several couples can be seated, offering ample space for privacy while still encouraging interaction between guests. Paired with the aperitif—a 2017 Genevieve Blanc de Blancs MCC Brut 100% Chardonnay—comes a delightful bite of barbecued celeriac with a dressing based on sour fig, samphire, and seaweed. Here, South Africa and the Netherlands join hands, offering a preview of a series of dishes with unexpectedly exciting flavors. For instance, seared North Sea red mullet is marinated in a tomato and Cape curry chutney, served with cockles and a vinaigrette of cockle broth, saffron oil, lime, and chives, finished with paper-thin slices of crisp nori. In the glass, a lush 2021 Spanish Bodegas Luzón Mina de Oro Viognier. Masterfully executed is the crispy eggplant with ginger and chakalaka (a spicy South African vegetable relish), accompanied by creamy hollandaise foam, puffed sorghum, and yellow rice. Rich in flavor and texture, yet wonderfully light. Koen pours a 2011 Grangehurst Pinotage from Stellenbosch to accompany it, and we gladly ask for another pour. The lamb fillet with thyme and garlic is glazed with orange and served alongside braai ribs so tender the meat falls straight off the bone. They rest on a compote of pear, mint, and cucumber. As a side, a tartlet of peri-peri tomatoes with hazelnuts grown in northern South Africa, along with a sweet-and-sour onion sauce. We can only conclude that Amstelveen should be thrilled to have this culinary gem. And not just Amstelveen. Welcome to Lekker.