Lekker500 — Top 500
Peruvian cuisine is beloved by Nazka’s founder, Raul Lansink. And not just by him. His sister, Katinka Lansink, has even written two cookbooks about it. During his younger years in Venezuela, he regularly visited family in Peru. These visits were accompanied by the most fragrant dishes bursting with flavor. Years later, this inspired him to open a Peruvian fine-dining restaurant in Amsterdam’s Pijp neighborhood. We can safely say that Nazka has been an overwhelming success from day one. From the moment you walk in, you already know: things are (literally and figuratively) right here. The interior is carefully curated, the lighting is pleasant, and the cutlery and glassware are just right. Everything is spot on. Even the music. Young chef Koosh Kothari, who grew up in Peru with Indian roots, cooks at a high level, serving a modernized Peruvian “plant-focused” cuisine. Alongside meat and fish, there is also a fully vegan menu available. Vegetables take center stage. Most ingredients are sourced locally, but authentic Peruvian flavorings come directly from Peru. The wine list is impressive, which is hardly surprising given a talented sommelier like the Italian Alessandro Tondini, who provides excellent pairing advice for the complex flavors of the Peruvian dishes. Among other things, we taste a variation on the well-known ceviche: sea bass sliced like sashimi, served with seaweed crackers and Brazilian potatoes, accompanied by a sauce of blended Brazilian potatoes mixed with leek oil. As a side dish, a small bowl of paper-thin sliced tomatoes with red chili peppers. The presentation is magnificent, just like the flavors. The nut sauce is creamy, rich, slightly spicy with a fine tang, and the fish practically melts in your mouth. We pair it with a 2017 Spätlese from Tschida in Austria. A sweet wine, but what an incredible combination. Crispy pan-fried hake arrives with teriyaki sauce, smoked eel, and a lightly spicy mousse of pepián de rocoto. Another top-notch flavor bomb. In the glass, a white Rioja from Alegre Valgañon. The atmosphere is cheerful, the service is exceptionally attentive, and the bill is steep. But everything is worth every penny. Welcome to Lekker.