Drei Könige

The «Drei Könige» in the Bruch district is a lively, well-run neighborhood bistro whose menu fits on a single A4 sheet and offers almost everything one expects from a brasserie. We began with a wonderful, hand-cut tartare from Holstein cattle served with a mushroom salad and Parmesan, then our competent service staff poured a somewhat overly thick asparagus soup over a carefully plated asparagus salad with morels. By contrast, the salmon ceviche from Lostallo with rhubarb and watercress was perfect, with tangy yuzu providing the right kick. The veal loin steak with Marsala jus, creamed chard, and young thyme potatoes was also delicious. Our favorite, however, was the juicy pork chop, gratinated with spinach and feta on roasted cauliflower purée and accompanied by baby carrots. Chef Thomas Bischof also masters Mediterranean cuisine, as demonstrated by the «Niçoise» trout with potatoes, egg, baby lettuce, green beans, and olives. The wine list ranks among the best in the city, and we enjoyed a finely aged Phélan Ségur 2009 for a fair 110 Swiss francs.