Ottolenghi

The Geneva five-star Mandarin Oriental has made international chef pop-ups its hallmark. Following Indian chef Vineet Bhatia and Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, the series now features British-Israeli superstar Yotam Ottolenghi, whose cookbooks sell exceptionally well worldwide. For his first location outside the UK, he has appointed Maxime Martin as his deputy. The elegant brasserie offers a tempting menu with far less tempting prices—the wine list is outright exorbitant. We shared a few tiny hummus bites drizzled with olive oil, paid six francs for bread, and had sides billed separately. But what arrived on our plates was thoroughly convincing: the grilled Gambero Rosso duo transported us straight to the sea, the nutty artichokes delivered pure indulgence, and the fried leek with yuzu cream was a true delicacy. The fish balls in tomato sauce, lamb shoulder with cardamom, and crispy chicken served with potatoes, preserved lemon, and lovage were all executed flawlessly. Competent service.