Restaurant De Hoefslag by Mark Minkman

In een bosrijke omgeving vlakbij Zeist is restaurant HFSLG van Marco en Rob Peek tot op de dag van vandaag een begrip in wijde omstreken. Het ruime restaurant heeft een smaakvolle en chique inrichting, warm en kleurrijk en een prachtig uitzicht op de grote parkachtige tuin met uitgestrekt terras. De gerechten uit de open keuken van chef-kok Aron Grift zijn bereid op basis van de klassieke Franse keuken met hier en daar een moderne twist. De menukaart biedt bescheiden à-la-cartekeuzes, een meergangen chef's menu (ook vegetarisch te verkrijgen), en een business lunchmenu van twee gangen dat binnen anderhalf uur uitgeserveerd kan worden. De wijnkaart biedt ruim keuze uit de oude en nieuwe wereld voor zeer schappelijke prijzen. We drinken frisse chardonnay, Finca la Zulema 2022 Mendoza uit Argentinië bij een terrine van in groenekruidengelei ingelegde gerookte paling met ijs van eendenlever en julienne van appel. Een aangenaam begin, alhoewel het eendenlever-ijs aan de zoete kant is. Als hoofdgerecht krijgen we een uitstekend bereide rouleau van maishoen met pancetta, morilles en polenta. Sappig supermals vlees, prima allemaal. De pinot noir, Weingut-Weinbiet 2022 Pfalz, Duitsland toont zich een geweldige begeleider met een verfijnde balans en subtiele tannines. Op het andere bord lekkere ietwat stevige kalfssukade met citroen, croutons en jus de veau. Klassiek maar goed van smaak. De garnituren mogen gerust wat teruggeschroefd worden, soms is minder meer. Wel een oplettertje voor de zwarte brigade: de tafels mogen wat sneller afgeruimd worden. Drie kwartier na het hoofdgerecht nog met lege borden voor de neus zitten kan echt niet.

Meanwhile, Aron van der Grift works as head chef at the accessible HFSLG Bar & Bistro, cooking a balanced French-inspired cuisine with fresh seasonal ingredients. It remains a delight to sit down in the cozy and chic dining room, which overlooks the beautifully maintained gardens. Upon arrival, we are warmly welcomed, our coats are taken, and we are led to our table. For an aperitif, we taste a Prosecco Prima Cuvée Albis Extra Dry and indulge in a well-filled plate of paper-thin, freshly sliced Pata Negra with truffle mayonnaise. On the menu, the left side features a two-part section of aperitif bites and classics, while the right side offers a modest à la carte selection. The wine list features labels from Old and New World countries. To start, smoked halibut with snap peas, pumpkin, and runner beans. The latter nicely refreshes the dish. This is followed by thinly sliced marbled ribeye, alternating with duck liver and fig compote. Beautifully presented, with top-quality liver and meat, and served at the ideal temperature. The lamb main course is tender, as is the Mechelse koekoek served with chapati (Indian flatbread) and garam masala. The spicy jalapeño sauce completes the dish perfectly. Paired with a glass of 2022 Italian Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, which has low tannins and makes a lovely pairing. The waitstaff does an excellent job, is attentive, and leaves no detail overlooked. And last but not least: the bill is downright modest for what is served. Tip: when the weather is nice, the spacious terrace is highly recommended!

HFSLG is unpretentious, relaxed, and informal, situated in the wooded surroundings of Zeist. Its charming, chic atmosphere and expansive park-like garden make it a beloved multi-functional venue. There is also a spacious, sun-drenched terrace where guests can enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner in good weather, making it equally ideal for receptions or drinks. The teams are led by host and head chef Aron van der Grift. From the open kitchen come hearty yet refined dishes, distinctly French-inspired, crafted with daily fresh and pure seasonal produce. We enjoy a high-quality, hand-cut beef tartare, accompanied by a tasty garnish of egg cream, sweet-and-sour relish, piccalilly sauce, brioche, and a hint of heat from a small chili. My table companion samples the gazpacho, which is fresh and smooth with subtle acidity, finely diced vegetables, and fried prawns. A fruity Quinta da Calçada Vinho Verde from Portugal’s Douro region sparkles in the glass, soft and lively with delicate minerality that we sip alongside the perfectly pan-seared cod. Accompanying the fish are plump mussels, seasonal vegetables, and a silky beurre blanc. The dessert is soft, sweet, and refreshing: peach panna cotta paired with white chocolate and yuzu ganache, strawberry granita, and rum-poached peaches. A side of tarragon oil completes the dish. The service is exceptionally friendly, though the pacing could be slightly quicker. Finally, the bill is remarkably reasonable given the quality and generous portions of the dishes.

Since Brothers Horeca Group De Hoefslag took over and rebranded as HFSLG, Chef Bjorn Stukje has shifted toward a more approachable cooking style, and it’s clearly paying off for the restaurant. The place was packed on the day of our visit, primarily with older patrons. The spacious restaurant features a chic interior, warm and colorful, with portraits of celebrities on the walls and views of a leafy garden. No amuse-bouches here, just a basket of bread. The menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine. We sample the vitello tonnato: thickly sliced veal loin served with tuna, anchovies, radish, crostini, and an herb mayonnaise. Nothing wrong with it at all. The starter of al dente orzo with pan-seared scallops in lobster sauce is absolutely delicious. Paired with it is a Chardonnay-Viognier blend from Les Colimonts. A perfect match. The duck breast in vadouvan jus, however, falls short—it was either overcooked or had been sitting too long on the pass. A pity. Served alongside are thick-cut fries with mustard mayonnaise. The portions are generous, but you certainly pay for them. In return, we would expect a higher level of expertise from the service staff. The descriptions of the dishes are brief, and the wine knowledge is limited.

Brothers Horeca Group De Hoefslag took over this restaurant in 2015. The name was shortened to HFSLG and bistro cuisine was introduced. For now, it appears Chef Bjorn Stukje has no trouble serving up more accessible delicacies. Take the escargots, for instance: twelve pieces served without their shells in a creamy herb sauce with crispy bacon. Delicious, as is another bistro staple: steak tartare. Juicy MRIJ beef, finely chopped and seasoned with capers and shallots, accompanied by a spread of piccalilli, arugula, and truffle mayonnaise. A fruity white Rhône wine, the Rocca Maura, sparkles in the glass, which we happily finish off alongside the pan-fried sea bass. Two juicy fillets, cooked to perfection, are served with carrot cream topped with olive crumbs, a pepper salsa, green asparagus, and a rich lobster sauce, plus homemade fries with tarragon mayonnaise. Equally delightful is the buttery-soft barbecued rib meat served on an Asian-inspired salad with coriander and hoisin. HFSL remains a beautiful, spacious venue featuring tufted wall banquettes and leather armchairs at bare tables, carpeting, an open kitchen, wine display cabinets, artwork, and floral arrangements. We finish with a classic Eton Mess: vanilla ice cream with whipped cream, strawberries, and pieces of meringue. And a low bill. An excellent spot. But given the innovative concepts, creativity, and daring found elsewhere, HFSLG will have to make way in the Top-100.

Restaurant HFSLG is temporarily housed in the bistro – known to many as De Ruif. Coziness is central here; the atmosphere is downright informal and relaxed. From the bistro, you enjoy a stunning view of the park-like garden, where grapevines have been growing for a few years alongside an extensive vegetable garden. On summer days, you can happily linger on the large, meticulously maintained terrace. The menu features classic dishes and several house specialties, such as bouillabaisse and the famous HFSLG classic: truffle risotto. The lunch menu includes, among other options, a quick and light two-course meal, perfect for a business lunch. Guests of all ages are welcome to sample the affordable, high-quality dishes, which are prepared in the open kitchen by a dedicated team of chefs. A lovely spot.

Bjorn Stukje has succeeded chef Raoul Meuwese, specializing in French-international cuisine within this classic, meticulously designed restaurant owned by Marco Peek. Host and sommelier Bart de Groot presents a delightful array of starters: a goat cheese lollipop, asparagus crèmeux, crispy potato bites, and tomato mousse. This is followed by a generous portion of couscous salad featuring red mullet, eggplant cream, and an arugula broth. A hearty starter, accompanied by a glass of Italian Pozzodorico Bellone Cincinnato 2017. What follows is a surprisingly simple dish of potato cream topped with a poached egg, caviar, and a potato sauce. Delicious, though it would have been perfectly finished with a touch of shaved truffle. It pairs beautifully with a glass of Chenin Blanc Le Rocher des Violettes (Xavier Weiskopff, 2017). The main course features veal fillet, served alongside pan-fried green asparagus, turnip, morels, parsnip cream, and veal jus. The fillet boasts a wonderful texture and is cooked to a perfect medium-rare. The small jug of jus stays on the table, allowing us to freely add more of the aromatic sauce. Paired with a Spanish 30.000 Maravedies (Marañones, 2015). An excellent choice. We conclude with house-made sorbet ice cream, fresh raspberries, a light Italian foam, and white chocolate. A lovely classic dessert wine is poured alongside: Sauternes from Château le Payral. In summary: excellent flavors, friendly service, and a cozy ambiance. The dishes are solid, but the value for money is lacking, and the compositions could be more refined. HFSLG rating drops to 42.

The Hoefslag by Rob and Marco Peek has changed its name to the trendy HFSLG and relocated to the ground floor of a stylish forest villa. The restaurant features a modest number of tables and no longer serves lunch. We feast in the intimate garden on exquisite starters such as tom kha kai mousse with cockles and sorrel vinaigrette, and gazpacho ice cream with watermelon and cream cheese. For the appetizer, ceviche of sea bass and razor clam offers fresh accents like avocado, buttermilk vinaigrette, radish, lavender oil, glasswort for a briny touch, and sesame crisp for crunch. A light dish crafted from super-fresh ingredients, meticulously plated and subtly flavored. Equally impressive is the veal tenderloin tartare, roughly chopped and served alongside roasted artichoke, capers, anchovy mayonnaise, sourdough little gem lettuce, and beer-marinated onion. In the glass, a Marsanne Les Vignes d’à Côté, 2016, by Yves Cuilleron—a quintessential white Rhône with delicate notes of elderflower and honeysuckle. We continue pairing it with the lamb trio. Juicy fillets, butter-soft loin slices, and savory neck meat are served with dollops of goat cheese sauce, broad beans, carrots, and an intensely rich vadouvan-lamb sauce. Simply delicious. The kitchen delivers pure craftsmanship. And the friendly service holds its own as well. It slides from the top three spots down to 26th place.

Owner-chef Karl van Baggem no longer stands behind the stove but offers guidance, while Raoul Meuwese is the head chef, and BHG (Brothers Horeca Group), the hospitality company run by two disco brothers from Bunnik, is now in charge of this once-renowned culinary landmark where virtually every top chef in the country has worked. The beautiful forest villa was renovated last year, and we are now sitting on the terrace sipping our glass of Les Hauts de Montarels, an affordable Chardonnay from the Côtes de Thongue (2015). We gaze out over a meticulously tended shrubbery, vividly colored as if straight out of a travel brochure. The staff, attending to guests in a somewhat chaotic choreography, is partly veteran and modest, partly young and bold—a contrast that takes some getting used to. Nothing is lacking in the dishes; if anything, everything is intensely seasoned—the salt shaker is certainly not spared. The crispy squid and lobster with piccalilli dip and a wasabi and black curry biscuit is delicious, as is the asparagus amuse with a crispy broad bean. The sea bass tartare with quinoa, avocado, and citrus is professionally prepared and tasty, the beef with white asparagus, potatoes, and mushrooms is perfectly cooked, and the strawberry and rhubarb dessert with tarragon and balsamic is flavorful. The cheese selection on the second dessert plate is also up to standard. In short, everything seems flawless here. Yet we feel something is missing. Not that we expected the wandering ghost of Gerard Fagel, but suddenly we know what it is: we miss the soul. De Hoefslag drops one place to 23.