Lekker500 — Top 500
At Pollevie in the Palace Quarter of Den Bosch, you have been able to enjoy creative and responsible, often vegetarian and even vegan dining for many years. That is the kitchen where chef and owner Martin Berkelmans feels most at home, driven by both curiosity and urgency. Indeed, in his own fermentation lab, he lets nature take its course with scientific precision. He sources vegetables, herbs, and fruit from nearby, from food forests and organic gardens. On the plate, this translates into surprising flavors and ingredients, while Berkelmans demonstrates his mastery of classical cuisine through his preparations. To get to know the chef properly, we choose the Pollevie Parade, which includes meat and fish. It proves to be an excellent choice when we are served Dutch chanterelles, gnocchi, pickled onions, and a bean blend (fava beans and lupin beans) linked together by a vegan 'hollandaise'. All in all, a delicious plate with comforting flavors and textures, though the gnocchi appear to be fried. Which, incidentally, gives them a nicely crunchy bite. Paired with a glass of Marsanne 2022 from Louis Chèze, a white Burgundy situated next to the famous Condrieu appellation. The pleasant acidity cuts through the somewhat rich dish perfectly. Next come generous portions of perfectly cooked lobster, Bunker cheese, fennel, sushi rice with saffron and kombu, and bisque foam. The bisque is intensely flavored and simply spot-on. Our sommelier Gabriel, of Brazilian-Arab descent, swears that a glass of red rice sake belongs here. We follow his advice and find him absolutely right. The Mukai Inemankai, with its 14% alcohol, initially resembles a fortified wine, but its sweetness pairs beautifully with the lobster; a truly unique experience. In the cozy, bustling restaurant, our centerpiece arrives: slices of poached and smoked lamb procureur, peas, courgetti, harissa, and caponata, finished with its own jus. The lamb is wonderfully tender and deeply flavorful. A comforting and generous portion! The desserts, including a vegan parmesan mousse with green apple and preparations of sea buckthorn berries, as well as the cheese board, are all thoroughly excellent. A lovely spot, moreover easily accessible by train.