In Den Rustwat

For years on end, the passionate owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren has been running his rustic restaurant, In den Rustwat, on the outskirts of Rotterdam. The name stands for a relaxing afternoon or evening spent savoring the gastronomic craftsmanship of the chef and his team. The ambiance is atmospherically decorated with round tables covered in leather, comfortable armchairs, and subdued lighting. We are greeted and escorted to our table, where we are quickly served a lightly sparkling Edmond Roussin Brut Premier Cru champagne. A parade of refined welcome bites follows, featuring North Sea crab with hollandaise flavored with brown butter and potato crisp. Afterward, one mouthwatering and visually stunning dish follows another. Marcel’s cuisine is characterized by light and refined flavors, with each dish consistently surprising through a sophisticated touch of sweet, sour, salty, or bitter. Take, for example, a rose of bluefin tuna with crispy cuttlefish and bean sprouts dressed in a lightly tangy verbena-ginger vinaigrette with bonito flakes. Equally stunning is the vegetarian dish: an eggplant quenelle filled with shiitake mushrooms and onion, topped with dollops of crème fraîche and a mushroom-ponzu sauce. Host and skilled sommelier Xander Mesch recommends a 2020 Meursault 'Sous la Velle' from Domaine Michelot, which is decanted before being poured. A delight for the taste buds. And so is the Luma entrecôte (aged with natural mold, making the meat extremely tender and creamy), served with peas, wild garlic, lardo, and an aromatic fenugreek sauce. The highlight of the menu excels in its simplicity: Swiss-style creamy Fette Berta generously topped with caviar. Van Zomeren knows his craft. It ranks at number 93.

Chef Marcel van Zomeren cooks dishes without fuss, but with flavor and a keen sense of detail. The botanical garden surrounding the historic inn complements what is served on the plate. Dishes are prepared with care and an eye for natural flavors b...

Passing through the lush courtyard garden with its terrace for sunny days, you enter the historic 1597 building housing restaurant In Den Rustwat. What makes it truly remarkable is that the structure was relocated several hundred meters away in the 1960s and meticulously reconstructed in its original style. The attached sunroom, by contrast, is distinctly modern, featuring light tones and abundant woodwork. Owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren prepares French cuisine infused with global influences, and the menu features multi-course tasting options. Many of the ingredients are sourced from Voedselbos de Biesbosch and Landzicht Biologisch. While enjoying our aperitifs, we sample a plate of buttery-soft San Daniele ham. A kohlrabi foam paired with green apple and cucumber is accompanied by a fresh garden bean crumble, thinly sliced radish, and a langoustine broth finished with drops of oregano oil—a refined and delightfully refreshing dish. The prawn crackers filled with Thai noodles and shredded cabbage leaves fall slightly flat, lacking flavor, while the noodles turn out quite hard and dry. Yet that is the only letdown, as we thoroughly enjoy the crispy-skinned pan-seared sea bass served with briny seaweeds and sea vegetables. A ponzu-soy sauce brings the dish to perfection. The chef’s signature dish is equally delightful. He drew inspiration for it during his recent trip to Japan. A ripe avocado is halved and grilled over an open flame. The skin is then peeled away, and the still-warm avocado half is presented on the plate like a small bowl. Inside, we discover a filling made from various preparations of onion that beautifully complement the avocado’s buttery richness. A dressing sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds pairs perfectly with it. To accompany it, we have a Viña Adaja Verdejo 2023 from Rueda. Simply outstanding!

What a delightful spot in Kralingen, Rotterdam. For anyone looking to escape the daily grind for a while, this charming, atmospheric 16th-century inn serves as a truly pleasant retreat, not least thanks to the excellent cuisine by owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren. You truly feel like a welcome guest here, with the entire team ensuring a relaxed and comfortable experience. Marcel prepares a lighter take on classic French cuisine. The wine list is thoughtfully curated and features several gems from lesser-known wine regions such as Morocco, Hungary, and Lebanon. The amuse-bouches are delightful surprises. We savor a small cracker topped with rocket cream, crispy chicken skin, and anchovy—a lovely way to begin the meal. The seared scallop starter stands out for its beautifully caramelized exterior and incredibly tender interior. It is perfectly complemented by cucumber, pickled anise mushrooms, and radish, along with puffed rice grains and a huacatay-infused dressing. Elegant and delicious. Sommelier Ferry Tiggeloven has paired it with a 2020 Vasse Felix ‘Filius’ Chardonnay from Margaret River. Aged for nine months in used oak barrels, the wine has developed a pleasing body while boasting a wonderfully fresh and fruity profile. The main course, featuring pan-seared sea bass alongside a tartlet of sliced snap peas and chanterelles, is absolutely delightful. The meal concludes perfectly with a peach dessert. A yogurt-vanilla crème ring supports a dollop of farmhouse yogurt clotted cream, surrounded by a honey sauce, peach compote, and honey ice cream, crowned with an almond tuile. Refreshing and velvety on the palate, each bite is a little celebration. A genuinely delightful and reliable establishment.

Owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren, who increasingly prefers to go by the name IDRW for his In den Rust, has removed several tables to give guests more breathing room. At the same time, the Orangery hall has been added to the restaurant's premises. It is a beautifully appointed orangery featuring a modern interior with light yet warm tones. Peace and quiet are guaranteed at this atmospheric 16th-century inn located near the Maas river and the university. With its spacious terrace and ample parking, IDRW remains an oasis in the port city. The kitchen offers a light interpretation of classical French cuisine, and Van Zomeren is a veteran chef who has been behind the stove here for decades. His service team consists of four young men who work quickly and unobtrusively. Sommelier Xander Mesch pours a Marsanne by Yves Cuilleron, a delightful straw-yellow Rhône wine from 2020, while maître Diego Hallauer presents welcome bites, particularly the mackerel horn, which truly impresses. This is followed by a stunning vegetarian dish featuring parmesan foam, potato crunch, Marigold egg yolk, and black truffle. From the chef’s menu, we choose the seared halibut with sugar snap peas, anchovy, and mouclade (mussels in a curry-cream sauce), alongside the bluefin tuna with codium and soja tomasu (a sauce made from soybeans and wheat from the Hoeksche Waard region). Delicious plates, and the white wine pairs excellently. The main course features lamb: succulent confit and perfectly cooked loin and cutlets that are melt-in-your-mouth tender, served with beetroot, morels, duck liver cream, and black pepper sauce. Accompanied by a pleasant glass of red Bordeaux. On the other plate, pan-seared sea bass fillets. Firm and juicy, presented with a large langoustine and a side of smoked paella, sea beans, green beans, and asparagus. Both dishes are finished tableside with sauce; the carafes remain on the table so we can pour ourselves another glass. That’s exactly how we like it!

Characteristic of IDRW’s interior are the Delft blue tiles on the walls, the thatched roof, and the antique floor tiles. The bar and kitchen, on the other hand, are hidden behind a wall of tempered glass. Black and copper feature prominently in the colors and materials used. The combination of monumental and chic elements creates a sense of calm, space, and a touch of mystique. Here, owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren cooks with love using top-quality products sourced from organic and local growers. The wine list features wines from around the world, with particular attention given to biodynamic labels. Host Diego Hallauer warmly welcomes us and takes good care of us throughout the evening. With the aperitif, a refined rosé cava from producer Raventós i Blanc, a small bowl of puffed corn seasoned with ras el hanout is served as the first bite. This is followed by several visually and palate-pleasing amuse-bouches: watermelon marinated in Sichuan pepper, a caramel and tomato horn, red curry mousse with coconut, and a tapioca crisp with smoked mayonnaise. We eagerly await what comes next. The intermezzo is special: marinated and then barbecued kohlrabi with hazelnut and chanterelles. Savory and earthy, just our style. The complimentary red Pi-3.1415 from the Aragon region, made from 100% Concejón grapes—an old variety that is unfortunately still underutilized—pairs seamlessly. A quick tip: always ask to taste the wines first to avoid poor pairings. The Blanquette de Limoux from Alain Cavaillès Les Bienveillantes paired with the starter of slices of akami (red) bluefin tuna on a bed of ponzu-soy jelly is not a good match.

Even in bustling Rotterdam, it is still possible to find an oasis of tranquility, specifically in the charmingly appointed historic inn, In Den Rustwat. The thatched roof, original floors, and Delft blue tiles on the walls provide a striking contrast to the modern global cuisine created by owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren. For Marcel, only the best is good enough for his guests, and it shows. From arrival to departure, you are pampered here by the high-quality cuisine and an exceptionally warm, highly skilled restaurant team. Flavorful, contemporary dishes are prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients, including homegrown produce such as flowers, herbs, and vegetables. The wine list offers a wide selection of wines, which are enthusiastically and expertly discussed and recommended by master sommelier Xander Mesch. A wonderful establishment.

An oasis of calm, this atmospherically furnished old inn in bustling Rotterdam near Erasmus University. Owner-chef Marcel van Zomeren prepares French cuisine but does not shy away from adding contemporary touches. We are warmly welcomed by maître-sommelier Xander Mesch, who, together with hostesses Mandy Klarenbeek and Eveline van Es, ensures a flawless evening. Cheerful server Diego Hallauer also plays a major part in that. Set menus are available, though you can also order à la carte. The wine list is extensive, featuring selections from around the world. Paired with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, l’Esparrou Grande Réserve Languedoc, come delightful amuse-bouches including a gazpacho of roasted bell pepper with gin-and-tonic foam, and prawn crackers with eggplant cream. That certainly bodes well. For a starter, skin-on pan-fried sea bass with tarragon and peanut foam, salty fingers, avocado, and slightly over-chilled burrata. Followed by excellently grilled gurnard with grilled smoked beetroot, popcorn, radish, shaved almonds, and a light garlic sauce. As the main course, a beautifully seared Simmentaler loin with accompaniments of roasted corn, spring onion, onion compote, enoki mushrooms, polenta, and herb jus. This is paired with a smooth Lagrein from Terlan in South Tyrol. To finish, pineapple with coffee crèmeux, ginger beer granité, coconut cream, and coconut shavings. Delicious!

An atmospheric and impeccably restored inn from 1597 in the heart of the city. Tables dressed in white sit beneath high beams and crossbeams, accompanied by a terrace and an orangery. A popular restaurant and wedding venue with a large parking lot. Executive chef Marcel van Zomeren combines classic craftsmanship with authority: his brigade runs like a well-oiled machine. Although the tiled floors and oak ceiling might suggest challenging acoustics, they turn out to be quite pleasant; only cheerful chatter fills the room while the enclosed kitchen steams away behind a glass partition. After an amuse-bouche of stroopwafel with herbs and mustard ice cream, we taste thinly sliced cod with red beetroot: savory and flavorful fish resting on a bed of creamy brandade. The other starter is beef tartare with kimchi mayonnaise and the vegetables typically found in piccalilli. A lovely combination of finely knife-cut beef and the sweet-and-sour bite of the accompaniments. Maître Arjan Lagerwerf, who has been here for 15 years, pours a ripe Corbières from Château Ollieux Romanis (Cuvée Prestige 2014), made from Roussanne and Marsanne grapes: a feast of sun-baked and toasted flavors. For the main course, pan-seared turbot is presented tableside with a fresh, buttery beurre blanc. The accompaniments consist of leek, potato, and pearl onions. On the other plate: pork neck slow-cooked to a sukade tenderness, served with gnocchi, rosemary, celeriac, and zucchini, drizzled tableside by the maître with Vouvray sauce. The white wine holds its own beautifully alongside it. To finish, a delightful and crisp combination of mango, coconut, muesli, and yogurt. A top-tier establishment!