Lekker500 — Top 500
The debut featured in this guide's previous edition has been followed up. However, we must note straight away: visiting the chic Il Gattopardo is an experience that hinges on immersing yourself in a surrealist spectacle. Upon entering the bright corner establishment, you are immediately struck by a distinctive atmosphere, largely shaped by the minimalist interior, the sparse table settings relative to the expansive floor plan, and the staff's incomparably stoic demeanor. Here, it's all about Sicilian fine dining, deeply rooted in chef Salvatore Randazzo's heritage. The menu, printed in large, ornate script with steep prices, hints at a rather heavy dining experience. We order four courses, please—the minimum. We are soon served three exquisite amuse-bouches presented as spheres: a mortadella sphere, beautifully crafted with a crispy pistachio on top; a nod to Caprese featuring a buffalo ricotta sphere nestled in a rich tomato gazpacho with basil; and to finish, an Aperol Spritz—a delightfully tart little burst. The food is indeed quite intense: the bread basket is generously stocked with three varieties—a warm tomato focaccia, cornbread, and a thin cracker. The only misstep is the smoked salt, which unfortunately masks the natural flavors. The starters are equally rich: the octopus and mashed potato crème brûlée is paired with a house Irpinia Falanghina from Cavalier Pepe (straightaway red—bold!). My dining companion orders the 'burnt eggplant' with pistachio and basil ice cream, accompanied by a Baaria from Miceli (made from the Grillo grape). There's hardly any greenery to be found on either plate. A single pea accompanies the intermezzo course (cappelletti stuffed with ragù, Sicilian cheese cream, and veal stock), though the robust veal neck would have benefited greatly from a fresher, more acidic counterpart. The red mullet fillet is a lighter option, though its presentation is rather subdued. Before dessert, we receive an alcohol-free digestive of lemon and mint. It's a thoughtful touch, delivering exactly the refreshing quality we felt was missing throughout the meal. The dessert itself is also nothing to scoff at: an orange soufflé served with ice cream, cream, and intricate dark chocolate accents. The atmosphere here is welcoming, and the dishes are clearly crafted with care, yet there is a certain forced quality to the experience. It feels almost like stepping into a Fellini film. More dynamism is needed; while Sicilian cuisine is inherently baroque, a touch more airiness would be welcome.