Gaar

By now a regular fixture in the columns of this guide. A stone's throw from Maastricht, owner and chef Joachim Müller still cooks his dishes to perfection. Cook it properly! Beside him stands his wife and hostess Myrthe, who leaves the wine selection to host and sommelier Jurgen Houben. We find a pleasantly priced wine list where a clear preference for Spain’s Priorat region cannot be denied. Our passionate host opens with a Limburgish sparkling aperitif made from equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Raarberg, also located in the municipality of Meerssen. To start, tuna tataki and a Livar pork terrine with endive and brioche. The ‘Risotto Primavera’ features burrata and lemon alongside spring greens such as spinach, garden peas, and turnip tops. The veal sweetbreads with field mushrooms and parsnip are simply and tastefully prepared. For the main course, the wines take us to Italy. The sea bass with pumpkin purée is paired with a Gavi di Gavi made from Cortese grapes from Piedmont. The wine’s gentle acidity complements the tomato in the accompanying antiboise perfectly. The lamb rump is served with rösti and ciambotta, a vegetable medley from Southern Italy, accompanied by a 2020 Rosso Piceno from Fattoria San Lorenzo. We wrap up with cheeses from Crèmerie Saint-Simeon, a specialist primarily known for selling regional varieties at Walloon day markets. After the dessert of hazelnut, caramel, and filo pastry with fennel seeds, we are thoroughly satisfied. Pure indulgence.

Chef Joachim Müller has been steering this relaxed and charming restaurant on the border between Meerssen and Maastricht for over five years now. The interior is classic, and the kitchen delivers exquisite dishes. Maître and sommelier Jurgen Houben puts his heart and soul into crafting the perfect wine-pairing combinations, even surprising guests with two wines served alongside the cheese so that every flavor profile is fully represented. Hostess Myrthe Richter sets the bar just as high when it comes to pampering guests completely. Alongside a choice of two tasting menus, there is also the option to dine à la carte. Joachim works extensively with local and seasonal produce. After the amuse-bouche of an asparagus soup and a crispy tortilla with eggplant, we move on to a lamb and rosemary terrine presented with a surprising endive chutney. The skin-crisped dorade with cauliflower and sauce vierge, followed by the quinoa with spring vegetables and an Eastern tom kha phak sauce, are both beautifully plated and rich in flavor. Vegetables take center stage on the plate. The classic Gavi di Gavi pairs excellently with the fish, while the Kerner Luxs wine from Italy complements the quinoa seamlessly. Be sure to save room for dessert, as you absolutely do not want to miss the panna cotta with rhubarb and a fennel crisp! A truly welcoming spot.

Gaar, the restaurant of Joachim Müller and Myrthe Richter, is located on the border between Meerssen and Maastricht. With Joachim Müller as head chef in the kitchen and Myrthe as hostess, Gaar is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year, which is largely thanks to the relaxed atmosphere, familiar dishes, and approachable wines. For an aperitif, we have a full-bodied cava with notes of toasted brioche from the progressive family-owned wine estate Parés Baltà. Accompanying it are a glass of watermelon gazpacho with basil oil and a crispy tortilla with vegetable mole. We opt for à la carte and start with homemade shrimp croquettes that are very flavorful but contain few actual shrimp. Served with sea beans, fried parsley, cress, and dollops of lemon mayonnaise. In the glass, a well-chilled, oak-aged, and particularly full Verdejo from Félix Lorenzo Cachazo. Perfect! For main courses, there are grilled ray wings with beurre noisette and tournedos with Madeira jus. Both perfectly cooked, juicy, and highly flavorful. The sides for both dishes are identical: green asparagus, white asparagus, Dutch peas, bimi, and a cube of fried polenta. However, the asparagus season has been over for some time now. Unfortunately, the accompanying small dish of fries and mayonnaise is not homemade. A minor point to note. On the other hand, the wines selected by Myrthe and her right-hand sommelier Jurgen Houben are a perfect match, served at the right temperature, and poured generously. Paired with the ray wings and beurre noisette is a Spanish unoaked Chardonnay, but without a doubt with plenty of body. With the tournedos comes a classic, juicy Merlot with soft tannins from Bordeaux. We round off the meal with surprising cheeses from Crèmerie Saint-Siméon and a delightful, refreshing summer dessert of homemade yogurt-ginger ice cream with a cava sabayon, red fruit, and verbena. A solid address, with a lovely atmosphere and good wines. Whip up that mayonnaise, cut those fries, opt for seasonal vegetables, and Gaar will be back on point!

Located at the roundabout in Rothem-Meerssen, the venue is atmospherically furnished, featuring as its centerpiece a wall-sized illustration of chefs above a sizzling pan. Their cooking technique is still in the elevator. And by that we do not mean heading towards 'well-done', but rather in terms of overall quality. The greatest strength lies at the front, where Jurgen Houben, as master sommelier, has his affairs excellently in order. Owner-chef Joachim Müller inspires with seasonal dishes, and vegetarian options play a not insignificant role. He begins with his signature dish: a crispy tortilla of oriental tuna with pickled ginger, sesame, chives, and wasabi mayonnaise. Impeccably prepared and thoroughly delicious. In the glass, a Muscadet 2021 from Domaine Ménard-Gaborit, a surprising and bold choice that does not miss its mark. Next, corvina with octopus, risotto, and antiboise. This is followed by main courses of sea bass with briny vegetables, couscous with ras el hanout and brown butter, and veal entrecôte with organic Limburg oyster mushrooms and creamy pointed cabbage. Both mains are accompanied by Piedmontese wines from the Francone estate. With the sea bass comes a subtly aged Chardonnay from Langhe, and with the veal, a Barbera from Alba. Both are excellent matches. The concluding cheese course is served at the perfect temperature. Finally, compliments to the highly diverse wine list curated by co-owner Myrthe Richter, who works with a fixed markup. And the bill? It is quite reasonable. So, ‘A point’.

Owner-chef Joachim Müller worked at several renowned establishments before eventually settling in Rothem, a village just outside Maastricht. Together with his wife and sommelier Myrthe Richter, they run their atmospheric and meticulously crafted bistronomy restaurant, Gaar. The interior features sea-green walls and abundant wood. Off-menu, there are always additional dishes available. Fixed favorites include crispy tortillas with various fillings or Limburg beef from Pasveld. A horn-shaped appetizer with crab rillette and avocado cream pairs perfectly with our rosé sparkling wine from Wijngaardsberg in Ulestraten. For the starter, a 'petit bouillabaisse' that could easily be called 'grand'. Scallops marinated à la minute with lime, fennel, celery, and verbena oil deliver a rich mouthfeel, especially when paired with the Chenin Blanc Renaissance by Brunet from Vouvray. But even more impressive is the vegan beetroot tartare with green apple, goat cheese, and cashews. Also vegetarian is the risotto with pesto, asparagus, and a gratinated slice of Bouquet des Moines cheese from the Val Dieu abbey. Equally lovely is the combination of vanilla crèmeux with caramel structures and pink peppercorns, accompanied by a Huxelrebe Auslese from Raddeck in Rheinhessen. It is not too sweet and wonderfully lively and fresh. We’ll gladly return to Gaar!