Lekker500 — Top 500
From the moment you step inside, it’s immediately clear: hospitality here is delivered with tremendous love and joy. A cheerful and uncomplicated atmosphere fills the former parking garage, which appears larger than it actually is. Yet the sober, sleek interior fosters a sense of space, featuring elegant oval and square wooden tables for two or four, a striking rough stone wall, and an open bar where the final touches are applied to the dishes. That wall, incidentally, inspired the design of the insanely beautiful tableware by sous Cas Driessen, which seamlessly complements the earthy color palette. When it comes to the food, we can be brief: high-level gastronomy is on offer here. Chef Gilbert von Berg prepares seasonal comfort food, but presents it in exciting, refined, and idiosyncratic creations. He doesn’t shy away from unconventional, often Eastern flavorings, but only when they add value and complete the dishes. Take the starter, for example: veal loin tartare with finely sliced Gillardeau oyster, paired with foie gras poached in cognac and kombu, seaweed salad, horseradish, and XO paste. The umami practically leaps off the plate. A fine Le p’tit Barriot Blanc is poured alongside it. Praise also goes to the fried chanterelles, to which garden beans are added at the last minute. They come with labne made from Turkish yogurt and feta, blended with chanterelle duxelles, plus tender Italian pork cheek (guanciale), truffle vinaigrette, and goat butter beurre blanc. Sweet, sour, salty, and bitter harmonize beautifully, and the entire dish is simply outstanding. We will definitely return tomorrow for the Japanese rice bowl donburi, featuring sushi rice with ginger, cabbage kimchi, crispy-fried short rib with veal jus, unagi (Japanese freshwater eel), and a sauce made from katsuobushi (fermented tuna flakes). But also for the cheerful, professional approach of the service team, led by the affable hostess Chloë Kusters, and above all: the pervasive modesty. It’s commendable. Enters at rank 00 in the Top 100 of this guide.