Bisque

In this stylishly decorated restaurant, with tables set with white linen and modern art on the walls, Niels Schievink and Sabrina Mans run their establishment with visible enthusiasm. We start with a rich, creamy langoustine bisque that imme...

In the quiet neighborhood of Helpman, just outside the center of Groningen, lies Bisque: a restaurant that has long been a staple of the local fine dining scene. Since taking over in 2023, passionate chef Niels Schievink and hostess-sommelier Sabrina Mans have established a kitchen that excels in refinement, flavor, and hospitality. Notably, there is freedom of choice: both à la carte and a tasting menu are offered—a rarity these days. The evening begins with three amuse-bouches, including a robust bisque that lives up to its name. The flavors are deep and layered, a promising start. The starter, a pan-seared langoustine Royale with forest carrots and lime leaves, is a visual and culinary highlight. We immediately regret not ordering an additional serving. The pairing with a Volxem Saar Riesling 2023 hits the mark: fresh, mineral, and elegant. This is followed by an open ravioli filled with oxtail, accompanied by morel mushrooms and a rich jus that elevates the entire dish. Between courses, delicious mini-flutes made from house sourdough and homemade brioche are served. A subtle, welcome interlude. The dessert, a light citrus soufflé with vanilla ice cream on ganache, surrounded by passion fruit, is perfectly balanced. Served on beautiful crockery that Niels and Sabrina carefully selected. Each dish testifies to craftsmanship and attention to detail. The atmosphere is relaxed, with ironed table linens and a subdued interior. The pacing is pleasant. Although the restaurant lacks a terrace and the narrow entrance passage feels somewhat dark, this does nothing to detract from the experience. Bisque is where tradition and innovation meet. Highly recommended for anyone seeking an evening full of flavor, style, and hospitality. On the brink of the Top 100.

Owner-chef Niels Schievink and his partner, hostess and sommelier Sabrina Mans, met in Giethoorn at restaurant De Lindenhof. Their dream of opening their own restaurant became a reality when they took over restaurant Bisque just outside the center of Groningen in 2023. As ambitious as they are, they have built a stunning establishment in record time. The ambiance exudes tranquility through its harmonious color palette and choice of materials. Sabrina’s charming and knowledgeable service, combined with Niels’ refined French cuisine featuring contemporary touches, completes the picture. We requested two different aperitifs, and our wishes were beautifully realized with an elegant 2020 Belgian Chardonnay 'Blauw' alongside a rich and pleasing Ronco del Gelso Friuli from Italy. Both paired wonderfully with the amuse-bouches, including a small brioche toast topped with steak tartare. The menu offers both set courses and à la carte options, while the wine list presents a fantastic selection from both the Old and New Worlds. We were delighted by the gently cooked trout with horseradish and laver, drizzled tableside with a warm dashi and broth vinaigrette. And the oxtail served beneath open-faced ravioli with porcini mushroom bread should absolutely remain a permanent fixture on the menu. The chefs explain every dish as it is served, detailing the ingredients, herbs, and cooking techniques. Each plate is a miniature work of art in its own right. If we have any criticism, it concerns the portion sizes per course, which are rather modest. This venue has the potential to thrive and truly deserves to be packed to the brim every single night. Bravo.

Drie jaar na opening hebben Jan en Corry Gaastra restaurant Bisque overgedaan aan het jonge en ambitieuze koppel Niels Schievink en Sabrina Mans. Hun eerste eigen restaurant waarmee een langgekoesterde wens is uitgekomen. Chef Niels en gastvrouw en sommelier Sabrina hebben elkaar leren kennen bij restaurant De Lindenhof in Giethoorn waar beide werkzaam zijn geweest. Niels werkt met dagverse producten en kookt een pure keuken op de Franse leest geschoeid. Naast à la carte-keuzes presenteert de menukaart een meergangenmenu. Op de wijnkaart maar liefst twintig open wijnen en in de kelder en klimaatkast liggen verrassende labels die Sabrina graag aan de gast voorstelt. Het zit chic in de stijlvol ingerichte eetzaal met grijsgetinte muren, lambrisering aan de wanden, houten tafels en lederen fauteuils. De akoestiek is matig. Na het snoepen van een bordje Zeeuwse creuzes starten we met een krachtige en romige bisque gevuld met langoustines en daar wordt een mooie houtgerijpte Chardonnay Blauw 2019 van het Belgische wijnkasteel Genoels-Elderen bij geschonken. Daarna een klassieker die dankzij Niels een eigentijds tintje heeft gekregen: twee tranches ossenhaas waarop perfect gebakken ganzenlever met diverse bereidingen van knolselderij als schuim, puree en gebakken, rode biet en apart erbij een schaaltje rozemarijnjus. Mooi op smaak, het vlees is echter wel minimaal geportioneerd. De elegante Catalaanse Priorat 90 Minuts 2021, Trossos del Priorat van garnachadruiven uit Gratallops laat zich goed combineren. Het dessert van tiramisu wordt eveneens in een modern jasje gepresenteerd: in een diep bord staat op crunch een cilinder van kunststof gevuld met marsala-ijs afgedekt met cacao. Aan tafel wordt de cilinder omhooggetrokken waardoor het ijs als een bolletje op het bord glijdt. Erbij een glaasje met een quenelle vanille-ijs onder een chocoladedekseltje. Leuke vondst. Aandachtspuntje betreft de rekening. Die is voor het gebodene nogal ferm.

After a long career in high-end gastronomy, Jan Gaastra and his wife Corry opened restaurant Bisque in 2020 on Verlengde Herenweg in Groningen. And it has certainly been highly successful for them. The characteristic, chic-looking establishment with its black facade and gold lettering draws attention and is consistently filled with middle-aged guests enjoying an evening out. Jan and his team’s kitchen stands for “good, familiar food.” Guests can opt for the all-in menu, choosing from several courses, and expand it with Bisque’s classics. Vegetarian options are also available. We begin with delicious little amuse-bouches, including a crispy wafer of licorice with chicken liver and cherry, and a crunchy roll filled with lamb pastrami and a balsamic cream. The first course features mackerel tartare with fresh fennel in an arugula broth, accompanied by a chickpea papadum and goat yogurt. We continue with pan-fried scallops in a dill foam and a kohlrabi tube filled with a fresh salad. Sommelier Sabrina Mans (formerly of restaurant De Lindenhof in Giethoorn) pairs this with a beautifully matching light Rioja 2020 Barón de Ley Blanco Sobre Lías. We savor the many flavors and textures that repeatedly come together into a harmonious whole. Between the third and fourth courses, we are surprised by a scroppino with lemon, bergamot, and raspberry ice cream, offering a refreshing and delightful change in taste and texture. After dessert—a tartelette with blueberries, verbena, and a rosewater meringue—we cannot resist the sweet treats, which include homemade warm madeleines and marshmallows that we get to toast at the table. It is an address you will quickly want to return to.

Chef Jan Gaastra and his wife Corry took on a new challenge in 2020 after years of cooking and working at a high level, including at their restaurant Koriander in Drachten. Restaurant Bisque is housed in a beautiful, spacious, and characterful building in Groningen, in an easily accessible location. Corry and daughter Sabine, who, like her mother, serves as the hostess, rolled up their sleeves and transformed the restaurant into a delightful dining paradise. It will come as no surprise that Gaastra’s craftsmanship remains intact and that the dishes maintain the same high standard we are accustomed to from him. We delight in starters such as a small choux pastry case filled with cheese and parsnip, a tartelette with carrot and citrus, and a mini bread roll stuffed with herb butter. The menu features multi-course options and classics such as bisque, foie gras, eel, turbot, and tournedos Rossini. As a starter, there is smoked beef tartare with soubise sauce, chicken liver crème, silver onions, pineapple, and lobster. Fantastic. The complimentary Chardonnay from Domaine Mariot Verdun, Quatre Fils Aymon, is slightly too crisp for the dish. We also notice in the following courses that the wine selection could use a bit more attention. The highlight is a lamb fillet with a crumble of dried field beans and lemon, served with a delicious jus. Simply delicious. Praise goes to the cheese board featuring selections from the affineurs of Tricht, including the outstanding Blankaart: a soft white-mold cheese made from organic raw milk from West Flanders. It is a pleasure to linger at Bisque.