De Kromme Watergang

In the rural area of western Zeelandic Flanders, bordering the seawall of the Western Scheldt, lies this stylish little restaurant where food has been cooked to a high standard for years. The elegant setting combined with the enthusiastic and frie...

On the menu, featuring tapas-style dishes made exclusively with fish and shellfish, we enjoy among other things sea bass ceviche with fennel, razor clams, and persillade, tom kha kai mussels in a beautiful jus, and on the barbecue, juicy grilled mullet and cuttlefish...

Time seems to have stood still in the Zeeland village of Hoofdplaat, where De Kromme Watergang is located. Situated on the Western Scheldt and home to fewer than a thousand residents, this setting is gratefully utilized by chef Tom Vinke, as Zeeland’s produce is abundant here. Alongside vegetables, fruits, and herbs from his own garden, the potatoes come from a nearby farmer, and the milk comes from cows grazing around the corner, which are turned into yogurt, buttermilk, and whey. Furthermore, there is close collaboration with local growers and fishermen. All these flavorful and sustainable quality products are transformed into exquisitely refined dishes that are pure and bursting with flavor. Tom elevates his cuisine to a higher level with flair. The amuse-bouches are highly promising. A crisp element based on dashi and seaweed from the Eastern Scheldt is accompanied by a dip made from Zeeland wakame. The razor clam tartare is lightly dressed with horseradish. And the roasted artichoke comes with a light broth of yellow curry, herbs, and coriander. The taste buds are pleasantly stimulated. His execution is exemplary, as we notice with the main course of turbot. The fish is cooked in its own juices, which enhances the flavor. The sauce, made from the head and bones, is rich in aroma, further enriched by the garden herbs incorporated into it. The morels accompanying the dish are stuffed with morel mousse. Perfection in apparent simplicity. The Domaine Carette Mâcon Milly Lamartine 2023, poured for us by skilled sommelier Jesse Huigh, pairs flawlessly. A delightful Chardonnay with a pale golden-yellow hue. The dessert is served on a stunning bright red glass plate. Resting on a chestnut mousse is a crèmeux of Zeeland blackcurrant, accompanied by toasted almonds, macadamia nuts, chocolate mousse, and tonka beans. Plus ice cream made from Zeeland bolus, drizzled with caramel sauce infused with seawater. 'We are not stingy' in Hoofdplaat. Class. Firmly rated at 17.

Little boys grow up, as is the case with the Vinke family. Where father Edwin wielded the scepter for years at the top restaurant De Kromme Watergang in Hoofdplaat, Zeeland, the roles have now somewhat reversed. Son Tom has over time developed his palate and culinary skills and now wields the culinary scepter. After all these years, we find father Edwin in the adjacent Bistro. He thrives in a compact kitchen equipped with a Basque grill. Over an open fire and using different grates, he prepares meat, fish, vegetables, and shellfish. From the restaurant, you can watch him at work. Edwin’s mission remains to please everyone and, together with his team, ensure tasty bites make their way to guests seated on comfortable chairs or long benches. There are just over twenty seats in De Kromme Bistro. The Spanish influences in Edwin’s kitchen come from the inspiration he gathers in Ibiza during the summer, where he runs Restaurant 1742. And of course, he steps in to help at Tom’s restaurant when needed. We enjoy the appetizer of hummus with coriander oil and flatbread roasted over a wood fire. This is followed by a plate of freshly sliced Jamón Ibérico Bellota accompanied by tomato salsa and warm pan de cristal with herb butter. Paired with it is a robust and fruity white Rioja, Larchago 2023. While waiting for the rib cut of Rubia Callega beef from Galicia, Edwin brings a bowl of soup to the table. “Made from celery,” he explains. The velvety, comforting, pale green soup is filled with thinly sliced zucchini, celery stalks, leek, and seasoned with jalapeño peppers. The bone-in rib arrives on a long platter, the bone sliced away and the meat cut into slices. Small bowls of pepper sauce accompany it, along with a container of crisp green lettuce with a delicious dressing plus marinated red onion rings. Golden-yellow fries fried in beef tallow round it off. That’s all it needs. There’s still just enough room for dessert. Warm tarte tatin, fresh out of the oven. Welcome to Delicious.

High quality cooking

In the Zeeland village of Hoofdplaat, De Kromme Watergang has been serving a highly consistent gastronomic cuisine for years. It uses ingredients from its own vegetable garden, herb garden, and beehives, along with produce from local farmers who supply the restaurant with delicious Zeeland clay potatoes and fresh milk, which is collected in buckets to make creamy yogurt ice cream. In the kitchen, son Tom Vinke has taken over from his father Edwin, while senior Vinke continues to observe from the sidelines. We sit comfortably in the calming dining room on white leather swivel chairs at impeccably linen-dressed tables. A parade of the most appealing amuse-bouches passes by, such as a crispy round of brioche with foie gras and parsnip. The succulent razor clam tartare, seasoned with salted lemon, also tempts the taste buds. A dish featuring a soft bun with smoked roots, homemade kimchi, and spicy tomato sauce is entirely vegetarian, yet it feels just like biting into a flavorful hot dog. And then the turbot! A large one. Poached in fish broth. The substantial, thick flakes are surrounded by a robust fish beurre blanc, topped with crispy seaweed, oak moss, and sea lettuce. Props also go to how beautifully everything is presented, such as the honey-themed dessert served on a platter printed with a honeycomb pattern. The two small bowls, each holding a different honey preparation, are already so visually striking in their golden and brown hues. For dessert, you alternate between a mousse made with honey, white chocolate, and vanilla, and a frothy sauce infused with kombucha and yogurt ice cream prepared with the neighbor farmer's milk. What makes the ice cream so incredibly delicious are the hidden chunks of caramelized honey. We could easily have ordered another portion. But you lack nothing at the Vinke family, as dinner is served generously on absolutely stunning crockery. Add to that the brigade's warm hospitality, and you are guaranteed an utterly magnificent culinary spectacle. This top establishment has decided to scale back fine dining at De Kromme Watergang by reducing the number of covers and further expanding the new 'family member', De Kromme Bistro, which centers on Mediterranean cuisine. Drops one place to rank 17.

SVH Master Chef Edwin and hostess Blanche Vinke have been delivering a gastronomic experience at their charming restaurant De Kromme Watergang for over thirty years. Son Tom has since joined the team, making the creativity even more intense. Creative, independent-minded, and down-to-earth are key words, just like sustainable business practices and keeping both feet firmly on the ground. They exclusively work with local seasonal produce, and yes, you're in the right place in Zeeland. Inside, the atmosphere is cozy and the welcome very friendly. The interior invites you to linger over your meal, and seated in the leather chairs, we certainly have no desire to get up anytime soon. The aperitif bites make a delicious introduction to the rest of the dishes. On a large round plate: a meaty oyster with spicy fish sauce, a razor clam stuffed with tender tartare and yellow curry cream, and a tartelet with winkle. The tuna sashimi starter looks fresh and tastes just as much so. The clear gazpacho poured over the fish has a deep flavor of tomato and pepper. Knowledgeable and friendly sommelier Pauline Wiskerke pairs it with a 2021 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc from Comte Henry D'Assay. The wine offers a grassy aroma with a hint of green apple and complements the dish well, where flavors of celery and cucumber can also be tasted. The main course of milk-fed lamb showcases the meat in all its forms: braised, roasted, and slow-cooked. The accompanying sides are highly flavorful. An excellent wine choice accompanies this as well. A red wine from Tuscany from the small winery Fattoria la Torre, 2013, crafted from 100% Petit Verdot grapes. Beautiful bottle aging results in soft tannins. The dessert is an ode to Zeeland: a Zeeuwse bolus soufflé. The soufflé is based on dulce de leche, which gives it a delightful caramel flavor. This is enhanced with a touch of cinnamon and speculaas spices. The vanilla ice cream filling the soufflé is an absolute hit. Top address. Rises a few places to 16.

De Kromme Watergang, the charming restaurant hosted by Blanche and SVH Master Chef Edwin Vinke, is housed in the former schoolhouse of Hoofdplaat. Located in the countryside, surrounded by small cottages and a 'salty courtyard' out front where herbs and vegetables for the restaurant are cultivated. The interior is classically modern, featuring round tables impeccably dressed in linen, leather chairs, a stool for handbags, and a beautiful wooden floor. Cooking with art has become Edwin's life philosophy. Artist friends frequently paint dinner plates with food-inspired motifs, for which Edwin and his son Tom create a matching dish. Their culinary style is light, built around Zeeland produce. The aperitif bites are presented on a round platter and look impressive. They taste just as remarkable. A small salad of sea lettuce with ginger, a flaxseed crisp, shallot cream atop a mini pancake with dried dulse and squid ink jelly, and a mojito shot with granita and lemon foam are all creative and richly flavored. Following Edwin’s signature dish—a smoked root vegetable that tastes like a smoked sausage, served with imaginative garnishes—comes a chicken ballotine with pumpkin and sweet potato, generously spiced with Indian spices and accompanied by a light, creamy poultry sauce made with coconut milk and capers. This is paired with an Ana de Altún, Rioja Viura y Malvasia from 2021. A robust white wine that pairs perfectly. Tiramisu is the dessert, but reimagined in the signature style of father and son Vinke: a chocolate sphere filled with vanilla and espresso tiramisu mousse, a sesame crumble cup, a chocolate truffle, chocolate sponge cake, a crispy mocha parfait, and chocolate ice cream. Despite its richness, it is devoured completely. We enjoy our coffee without pastries; the espresso is served in a delicate porcelain cup. Zeeland-style frugality feels out of place here; the portions are generous and the value for money is excellent. Rated 20/20.

Cooking with Art is the new concept from SVH Master Chef Edwin Vinke and his team. Artists are regularly invited to paint plates featuring food or food-related themes. For each, Edwin cooks a matching dish. The plates are first wheeled to the table so guests can admire the artwork, after which the kitchen team composes the dish upon them. Writer Ronald Giphart – a friend of Edwin’s – pens a descriptive text about the plate and dish, which guests receive as a card inside an envelope. The welcome from Blanche Vinke is warm and genuine. It is comfortable sitting in the stylishly decorated dining room on well-made leather chairs with casters and generously wide seats. Alongside a glass with a ginger shot and a mojito with citrus foam, we sample amuse-bouches such as lettuce hearts stuffed with seaweed and sesame, crispy yellow and red curry bites with a sambal dip, and a poffertje topped with Spanish pepper, black olive, and codium. The crisp bread is made from a house recipe using seawater and is served complimentary with whipped butter blended with buttermilk, sea salt, and algae powder. On a round plate embossed with a cockle shell, fruits de mer are served: razor clam with horseradish and huacatay (Peruvian black mint), cockle with harissa and orange, palourde with wasabi and lime, and venus clam with tomato and yuzu. Bursting with flavor and texture. On a plate stamped with a turbot silhouette, we taste lightly dry-aged pan-seared turbot with wild mushrooms, cèpe sauce, tomato sambal, and a soy sauce-based mustard, finished with a crunch of dried turbot skin. The umami practically leaps off the plate. A separate plate holds garnishes of vegetables from their own garden. Here, cooking is done with a keen sense of flavor, top-tier quality, and above all, a genuine passion for the craft. Chapeau! Rises to rank 00.

A household name in Zeeland and far beyond for decades. Thanks to the creative input of Blanche Vinke, the restaurant has undergone a complete transformation. The design embodies nature and the coastal landscape, translating into beautiful, calming ton-sur-ton shades on the walls and ceilings, light flooring, and sturdy wooden consoles. Photographs by Wout Kole featuring seafood—the signature dish of this charming establishment—complete the look. SVH Master Chef Edwin Vinke delivers exactly what we’ve come to expect: a gastronomic cuisine that elevates everything that grows and blooms in Zeeland to the highest standard. Edwin Vinke: “We have a large garden right outside where we grow our own vegetables and fruit. Aside from that, our kitchen is built around everything that comes from the local sea, combined with spices from all over the world.” This results in stunningly beautiful plates, stripped of unnecessary frills and focused instead on pure flavors. Son Tom Vinke has now joined the kitchen team, determined to showcase his genuine Zeeland roots to guests in an innovative way. Sommelier Pauline Wiskerke effortlessly charms her guests and primarily pours wines from Germany and Burgundy, because: “They pair best with our cuisine.” A top establishment housed in this former schoolhouse on Slijkplaat.

Ambiance, style, and a serene tranquility are the keywords that have defined this now fully renovated establishment for decades. Sand tones now set the atmosphere, the floors have been lightened, the wine cellar is now visible, and photographs by Wout Kole point more than ever to the pillars of this dining house: seafood. The kitchen of SVH Master Chef Edwin Vinke and his son Tom delivers solid fare, and the warmth of maître-sommelier Mike Dooms feels as reassuring as ever. He pours a white Languedoc blend of macabeu, grenache, and muscat (Vieille Mule) alongside a series of welcome amuse-bouches: mojito granita with pickles and curry krupuk; a salad wrap with hoisin, sprat, and apple crisps; a Gillardeau oyster with Penja pepper; sorrel ice cream on mizuna and lemon leaf; shaving-foam tartare with kaffir lime leaf cream; and a kumquat bonbon with orange and piment. Beautifully presented and well-balanced in flavor. The starter is duck liver. A creamy cube topped with raw scallop, oak moss, Jerusalem artichoke purée, and toasted hazelnut, accompanied by generous pours of Volratz, a mineral-driven Riesling with lovely residual sugar. This is followed by langoustines. Vinke barbecues the tails, slathered with bone marrow and persillade, in their shells on a Green Egg. On a side plate appear the legs, alongside kimchi, smoked root, chicken skin, and peanuts, plus a small glass of langoustine bisque with dark rum; we have never tasted such a divine shellfish soup before. On another visit—when Edwin himself is absent—we have to swallow hard. An oven-baked parchment parcel contains gently cooked cod on ginger, lemongrass, and coconut sauce. The flavor is good but unremarkable. It is served with a tom kha kai soup, which is rich in flavor. The dessert consists of an overly sweet lemon soufflé accompanied by a quenelle of intensely sour lemon ice cream. Such stark contrasts in quality should not occur at this level. We expect far better from the maestro. Score drops to 19.

Dining at this acclaimed restaurant by SVH Master Chef Edwin and Blanche Vinke is an adventure with nothing but highlights. Every bite hits the mark, and the same goes for every sip of wine. Chef-owner Vinke is busy in the kitchen with his two right-hand men, his son Tom and the new Zeeland addition Wouter Kik. The kitchen continues to innovate, and after 25 years that deserves a major compliment. Furthermore, the interior with its warm, dark tones and tables dressed in crisp white linen is an elegant focal point. The creations on the plate are spectacular. Take the smoked root vegetable, for instance: it tastes like smoked sausage and has a meaty texture that makes it highly suitable for vegetarians, while for carnivores the dish gets a crispy accent from rendered chicken skin. You either have to love it or force yourself to try it, but the flavor of the small piece of chicken is rich and aromatic. We pair it with a classically aged Chardonnay from Narbonne by Domaine de Gourgazeau, which boasts fantastic complementary roasted aromas. Also delightful is the piece of perfectly cooked turbot topped with a layer of lardo di Colonnata. It comes with brown bean purée, salsify, and foie gras prepared exactly as it should be: meltingly soft inside and crispy on the outside. Sommelier Mike Dooms pairs it with a Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil from Sylvain Bruneau, sourced from old cabernet franc vines with earthy aromas. Mike makes brilliant wine selections. The dessert is fresh and surprising, built around fennel, orange, and the regional liqueur Hierbas de las Dunas from Zeeland. It is accompanied by a glass of not-too-sweet Rheinhessian Spätlese from Weingut Clemens. This super-Zeeland dining palace climbs one spot to number 18.

We see mostly Belgian guests during our visit to this excellent establishment run by Edwin and Blanche Vinke, which is usually a good sign. Alongside them is a lone Dutch foodie passing through, for whom the journey to this remote corner in the no-man's-land of Zeelandic Flanders poses no obstacle whatsoever. While we savor tapioca chips with peanut butter and mizuena ice cream on mussel gel, we take in this elegant dining room, which will already be celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary next year, at our leisure: tables dressed in freshly starched linen, subdued music, quiet flooring, and atmospheric lighting against black walls adorned with close-up photographs of barnacles on pilings. And a beautiful open kitchen where activity has recently intensified, now that Master Chef Edwin Vinke and his son Tom are being assisted by Wouter Kik, who left his sous chef position at restaurant De Vierbannen on Schouwen-Duiveland for this role. From their hands tonight: oysters in spicy Thai curry. And North Sea crab on a salad of broad beans, oyster leaf, and ice plant in a delicate pea and mint broth. In the glass, a straw-yellow and fruity Cincinnato Castore 2015 made from Bellone grapes with notes of ginger. We pair it with fried turbot and langoustines on carrot elements in langoustine bisque. The unpretentious and highly skilled service team of hostess Blanche Vinke brings the pièce de résistance: tender, barbecued squab on sweet potato and smoked corn purée. Plus pan-seared duck liver alongside thick-cut fries with seaweed cream and verbena mayonnaise. Sommelier Mike Dooms once again selects a wonderful match: La Vallada 2013 from Tempranillo and Graciano grapes by Rioja winemaker Olivier Rivière. Simply delicious. De Kromme Watergang remains a standout, but drops one place to number 19.