Julie's

A Holland Park fixture since 1969, rebooted Julie's gives every impression of fitting its local constituency like a glove: here you will find ‘artists, thinkers, Martini drinkers,’ as the website proclaims. ‘I ran into an old friend who has appeared in Tatler ,’ one reader happened to mention casually. Summer evenings that begin with a drink on the terrace are a definite lure, and the interior ambience, which extends to a stylish bar, elegant striped banquettes and parquet floors, makes all the right noises too. The new owners have acquired the services of chef Owen Kenworthy, ex-Brawn and local pub the Pelican, who delivers a menu of French bistro and haute-cuisine classics ensuring solid neighbourhood support. Canapés set the tone with a lemon- and fennel-scented spider crab en croûte, as well as radishes and taramasalata. The main menu is like surrendering to a warm embrace in the sumptuous shape of truffled leek and Gruyère quiche with a mustard-dressed salad of fine beans, or perhaps duck liver schnitzel with shallot marmalade and a quail's egg. Unshowy but hugely satisfying main dishes take in everything from crab and scallop tortellini with brown shrimps and spinach in beurre blanc to a flavourful lamb rump with coco beans and tomato. Desserts could have high-tailed it from the 8th Arrondissement, what with crème caramel, chocolate pavé or a slice of rhubarb and almond tart with crème fraîche in the offing. There is good drinking to be had, by no means all of it from the French elite. Wines by the glass (from £9) keep everyone onside, but even the aristos of Bordeaux and Burgundy come at a fraction of what you would pay in the West End.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence