Dove

Jackson Boxer is one of the most versatile chef-owners in the capital and with the price of premium seafood squeezing margins at Orasay, he re-jigged the concept in early 2025 and relaunched the place as Dove – a more accessible proposition. The interior has remained largely untouched: muted and stripped-back, with herringbone flooring, off-white walls, squishy orangey banquettes and pendant lighting. Wooden tables with flickering candles are closely packed along the front room, but there’s more generous spacing at the back that benefits from a skylight – perfect on a warm sunny day, although it can get noisy when busy. Boxer's extensive repertoire comes to the fore in a broadly based menu that ventures beyond seafood. Orasay’s popular crispy potato cake is now deep-fried, topped with raw scallop and finished with a touch of finger lime and chicken salt, while deep-fried Taleggio and Wiltshire truffle lasagne is an utterly moreish prospect. That said, the kitchen hasn't forgotten how to cook fish: four king-sized red Atlantic prawns are simply grilled with smoked garlic and black-lime butter, while steamed hake with caramelised pumpkin, hazelnuts and mint is a beautifully balanced dish. Larger plates might include Tamworth pork loin chop or glazed duck leg with smoked beetroot for those hankering after some animal protein, and there's an 'off-menu' burger too. To finish, Estate Dairy 'Fior di Latte' soft serve, sprinkled with early-harvest olive oil and served with oat cookies provides a pleasant finale. The wine list has also been reconfigured and features a global selection of bottles from £35, with almost everything available by the glass. A handful of weekly special pours is offered by the glass, and there are half a dozen options for non-drinkers. Service is friendly, easy-going and well-tuned to the cool, bustling neighbourhood vibe.