Holy Carrot

The frantic Portobello Road location may not entice, but on a sweltering day this corner restaurant was unexpectedly calm and cool (in every sense of the word). The monochrome design speaks of expensive minimalism with large windows and bare, adobe-like white walls, while Daniel Watkins’ punchy, vegan food is alight with colour and vibrancy. The watchwords are ferments and open-fire cooking, and the commitment to low waste and sustainability is evident but discreet. And at lunchtime, he also serves some of the best chips in London. Cooking over coals produces roasted leeks, aji romesco or stunningly savoury beetroot with blueberry and pine nuts. Spicing is important: a plate of crispy mushroom 'wings' came with a fiery ahi buffalo hot sauce. On the downside, it was a bit of a one-note experience. Other choices might be artichoke and smoked tofu burger or trombetta courgettes with miso beans and fenugreek. Free-from-refined-sugar desserts include chocolate tahini crémeux, as well as cashew and almond soft serve with koi honey and fennel pollen. Above the shiny bar is a geometric light sculpture, which may be a reference to their collaboration with super-trendy cocktail mavens A Bar with Shapes for a Name. It could all be a bit 'holier than thou', but focus on those chips – if that’s Notting Hill chic, sign us up.