Ancient Shepherds

After some 30 years at the stoves, Mark Poynton’s ambition remains as vivid as ever, as can be seen at his latest opening – a roadside restaurant with rooms located in a Grade II-listed timber-framed building dating back to 1540.  On offer are three tasting menus (three, five or seven courses), delivered by head chef Chris Lee and opening with classy little snacks and impeccable milk bread glazed stickily with malt and thyme – the perfect scooper for lightly aerated cheese and onion ‘soup’ with beer-pickled onions and pieces of punchy Lancashire Bomber cheese. To follow, cured cod loin with seaweed, bitter orange purée, tomato ponzu and burnt chilli oil is a dish with look-at-me confidence and forthright attitude, while a serving of hogget is more restrained: tender meat accompanied by nothing more than puréed and roasted swede. Desserts are both playful and pretty, especially a beautifully fresh chocolate tartlet with dark chocolate mousse, freeze-dried yoghurt and yoghurt sorbet. The wine list opens at £28 with a bright Sicilian Terre di Vita ‘Libellula Grillo’, although most offerings are in the £45-£65 bracket before topping out at £240 for a bottle of grand cru classé Château Léoville Las Cases.