Wöschi

High quality cooking

Among the city's many fine restaurants, the "Wöschi" in Zurich Wollishofen holds a special place thanks to its location and modern architecture. Very few establishments sit so close to the lake, and even fewer can offer the unique view of the gently swaying sail masts in the harbor. Chef David Klocksin and his partner, the excellent host Stephanie Ospelt, have quickly left their mark on the venue. This is especially true for the kitchen, where Klocksin continues to refine his craft each year. The three starter snacks are crispy, aromatic, and surprising. For his signature dish of pickled, raw, and fermented vegetables, the chef recommends: "Simply work your way through it with a spoon." That way, you always catch some of the buttery sauce made from fermentation brine along with the small citrus pearls; here, Klocksin demonstrates a sure sense of balance. The nearly vegetarian eggplant course, presented in various textures (and with a touch of bacon), is paired with lemongrass foam, cashews, and hand-rolled couscous; black garlic and pickled wild garlic buds bring umami and freshness—the dish impresses both technically and in flavor. A zander is then rolled with stuffing and gently poached at 48 degrees Celsius, achieving a distinctive, creamy texture; the sauce, based on smoked fish and brightened with the juice of fermented asparagus, is exceptionally harmonious, while peas and herb oil add a fresh, green note. The braised Wagyu cheek wrapped in a savoy cabbage leaf is the only meat course on the menu, served alongside Wagyu tartare with summer truffle and sour cream, polenta, and a corn espuma—a pleasant surprise comes from the vegetarian, lightly sweet jus with a well-rounded flavor. The dessert of rhubarb, fennel, vanilla cream, butter crumbles, and mint oil reinforces the impression formed throughout the evening: David Klocksin cooks a little better by the lake each year.