Gault&Millau — 13
Seafood, pasta, Ayurveda, caviar, and even a Chateaubriand: The «Hide & Seek» at the «Giardino Mountain» is, from a culinary standpoint, an eclectic mix. But the quality is excellent! Francesco Leone and his twenty chefs handle every challenge with ease and, despite all the pressure, still find time to lovingly attend to the details—whether it's crafting tempting amuse-bouches (such as cannoli with scampi) or delicate friandises at the end. Guests in the popular «Stüva» also get what they desire: rösti with fried egg, capuns, pizzoccheri & co.
Pure enjoyment outdoors on the sun terrace with an unobstructed view of the Corvatsch. We start with a tuna rose with soy, sesame, horseradish, and a kohlrabi broth. Applause for the craftsmanship, applause for the flavor. St. Moritz is close by, and so it seems caviar is also a must in Champfèr. Some «Piatti extra» have been newly listed, such as «Linguine con panna acida» (sour cream). Fortunately, the pasta was cooked quite al dente, the lemon zest added a nice zing, and the Royal Premium caviar (by Cavian) paired perfectly. Pasta alternatives: raviolino del plin, spaghettoni from Gragnano with lobster and chili.
Chef Francesco excels at fish. With the turbot and parsnip mash, we particularly liked the elegant beurre blanc. The bouillabaisse is a classic in his repertoire: mussels, venus clams, red mullet, monkfish, croutons, and rouille sauce. And what does the Ayurveda community get? Cauliflower with rice seasoned with Oriental spices, seitan, and coconut lemongrass sauce, for example. Vegan-vegetarian, lactose-free, and gluten-free.