Gault&Millau — 14
The rustic "Stube" at the "Suvretta House" has a huge fan club. No wonder. The large sun terrace is a dream, an oasis of calm. And the two hosts do a fantastic job: Head chef Martina Federici, expertly supported by Executive Chef Fabrizio Zanetti, excels in every area and never loses her composure or her cheerful smile, even during peak service. Kurt Walters is the poised, long-serving maître d' and tartare master on the front line. "I've been working in paradise for 35 years," he says.
Martina cooks what the guest requests alongside her eight-strong brigade. It can be a Wiener Schnitzel, souffléed in foaming butter, or a cheese fondue made according to the old "Suvretta House" recipe. But she is always ready for culinary flights of fancy: whole sea fish (sea bass, turbot, sole) are always on the menu, and the sea bream baked in a beautifully crafted salt crust is an absolute hit. Martina also demonstrates her class in the finer details: the amuse-bouche featuring Engadin tartare, Gillardeau oysters, dashi, and chive mayo was nothing short of spectacular. Thai cuisine is also available: wonton soup with chili and coriander, spicy but not overpowering; the elegant duck ravioli are scooped from the hot broth with chopsticks. Even behind the simple term "daily pasta" lies something delightful: this time, gnocchi with the first morels and peas of the season. By the way, "five-star tuning" for the peas: hand-peeled and halved. The Carnaroli Gran Riserva risotto is also highly popular, shaved with winter truffle tableside upon request.
A nice touch: because many "Suvretta" guests bring their children, there is also a children's menu: "Captain Bluebear" (Wiener Schnitzel), "Angry Birds" (chicken strips), "Papa Moll" (meatballs with elbow macaroni), and much more. Non-hotel guests are also welcome in the "Stube" – mayor Christian Jott Jenny is a regular.