S.Zimmer

It is impressive what Stefan Zimmermann conjures up in the kitchen of the small "Esszimmer" on Adelboden's village street. Each course of the evening menu delighted us; each was a self-contained composition of finely tuned flavors, and each once again felt like the highlight. Zimmermann, a native of the Bernese Oberland, effortlessly marries French haute cuisine with regional ingredients. He also draws inspiration from Hungarian cuisine, the homeland of his partner, Tünde Zimmermann. As a trained sommelier, she charmingly oversees service and knowledgeably guides guests through the wine selection, which also features some excellent bottles from Hungary. Even the delicate amuse-bouches sparked joy: a pastry cone filled with cauliflower cream, a mushroom tartare on brioche, and an absolutely refined composition of confit celery were served as an introduction. The homemade nut bread with Parma ham and lemon butter was also excellent for a quick bite. Fried langos with sour cream filling and garlic must never be missing here, a personal variation of the well-known Hungarian specialty – "my guests and my wife would be upset if I left it out." Then one eagerly awaits the evening menu, which can be individually composed from eight offerings. Already the first course is a revelation: Zimmermann has reinterpreted vitello tonnato. Around a veal tartare, he places large cubes of wonderfully tender, marinated tuna, crowned with lettuce and a spicy shiso sorbet. The combination works perfectly. Also excellent was the fish starter with crispy pan-fried zander in a beurre blanc sauce, accompanied by steamed and fermented kohlrabi. For the intermezzo, the onsen egg on a fine mousse of potato and nut butter was delightful. A marine touch is provided by the mineral Baeri-Baika caviar from France. For the main course, we chose duck liver. Crispy fried on the outside, meltingly tender on the inside, served on a bed of pak choi, with a whipped sauce featuring mango and two types of pickled horseradish, it was a true treat for the palate. As dessert, the rhubarb variation with hibiscus mousse and white chocolate fit seamlessly into the lineup as a seasonal offering. For this impressive culinary journey, we award an extra point and are convinced: One will still hear much from young chef Stefan Zimmermann.