Lekker500 — 26
A stately castle from 1645. The dining room is located in the basement, a serene, chic, and light-filled space. Old elements such as vaults and ceilings blend beautifully with the stylish interior featuring many organic materials like wood, metal, and leather: class and quality. Serving as both a bread plate and an amuse-bouche dish is a porcelain 'head cushion', featuring a fun 'Once upon a time' story about a wishing well and a giant as its gimmick. Maître Stéphanie Meeuse never loses sight of her guests and does everything with infectious enthusiasm. Chef Ollie Schuiling, who paid close attention during his apprenticeships under his mentors at De Librije and the former De Leest, cooks at a high level with rich flavors, fresh acidity, spices, and top-quality ingredients taking center stage. Time for the amuses. Duck liver with beetroot, North Sea crab with apple, a spoon filled with vegetable preparations, buttermilk ice cream balls with crunchy bits, and a round of Thai street food: fried pork belly, spicy pandan soup, and beef pan krapow with fried egg and puffed rice. In terms of presentation, execution, and portion size, it's perfect; what a start! The five-course lunch menu begins with a salmon combination: lukewarm lightly seared salmon with yuzu foam and a tartare of peeled salmon with remoulade and red onion tiger milk. Next, barbecued red mullet with European boiled lobster, ribbons of yellow and green zucchini, green asparagus, and tomato jelly with artichoke cream. What refinement! Just as refined is the smoked eel with crispy potato and dashi, and plant-based land caviar made from Japanese cypress seeds, seasoned with sambai (Japanese rice vinegar). Delicious! We continue with a generous portion of beautifully pink-seared ribeye from the fattiest cut, bursting with flavor, accompanied by tandoori spices, pickles, cauliflower, and a cube of veal head so tender it falls apart. In the glass: 100% Garnacha, La Cicatera by Bodegas Altún from Rioja 2020, a lovely pairing. Before the bill arrives, which is substantial but certainly justified, Ollie Schuiling invites us on a tour through the castle, the kitchen, and the wine cellar. What enthusiasm. A solid 26.