Céline

The culinary journey begins as soon as you arrive here by car or bicycle, given its location on the grounds of Fort Jutphaas. The rich history and stunning lush greenery are remarkable. But this is merely the prelude, for the feast...

Located in a former fort on the outskirts of Nieuwegein, it is a popular address. This becomes clear during our visit when we are not the first guests and are seated at the very back of the large dining room at one of the small tables that stand (too) close together. Chef Rick Gresnigt prepares classic European cuisine, employs contemporary cooking techniques, and adds a subtle Eastern accent here and there. The menu features a choice menu of five to eight courses, along with various starter bites. Notably, Céline also offers a fully vegetarian menu: Menu Botanique. We begin with perfectly prepared skrei, coconut, lemongrass, and mango. Small but delightful. The flavor combination is delicate and well-considered. It is paired with a glass of elegant Spanish Albariño, fresh with citrus notes. Next comes the standout dish of the evening: crispy-fried black tiger prawn wrapped in kataifi pastry, served with creamy barbecue eggplant cream, yuzukoshō (a Japanese fermented paste of chili peppers, yuzu peel, and salt), and roasted tomato, all drizzled tableside with a fragrant sedeng dressing. The umami practically leaps off the plate. When it comes to the main courses, however, we raise an eyebrow: both the marbled vegetable portion in the vegetarian option and the piece of baked fish in the seafood dish are cooked well in themselves, but the portions are genuinely too small, which doesn't do justice to the accompanying polenta croquette. A pity. There is, therefore, plenty of room left for a cheese plate accompanied by fruit bread, preserves, and crispy broad beans. Everything is cleared clean. One point of attention concerns the long waiting times between courses. Whether you order five courses or eight, the total dining time ends up being roughly the same. That could certainly run more smoothly.

In the modernly designed fort, we are escorted to our table where the sommelier quickly delights us with a Besserat de Bellefon Extra Brut from owner Rick van Bezooijen’s wine shop. We opt for a caviar supplement with classic garnishes, and after a series of amuse-bouches, we begin our menu. For the starter, we enjoy Dutch yellowtail with a sweet and sour ceviche vinaigrette, accompanied by peas, tomatoes, slightly overpowering dill, and fried shrimp heads. A refreshing start. As an intermezzo, we savor morels with gnocchi, ramsons, and an enticing sauce, which is finished tableside with shaved Belper Knolle. The pièce de résistance features sliced beef from a dual-purpose cow, prepared with artichoke, pearl couscous, and beef jus with black lime. We pair this with a glass of Le Volte from the prestigious Ornellaia estate, 2020 vintage, available by the glass thanks to the Coravin system—a truly clever invention that remains a pleasure. The wine pairs beautifully with the main course. We order cheese as an intermezzo and pay a modest supplement for it. Six cheeses are served from a cheese cart alongside warm fruit bread and homemade fig jam. This is paired with a glass of Ratafia Champenois by Louis Casters, creating a truly sublime accompaniment. The desserts are highly recommended: yogurt quince mousse, lemon bonbon, berry brownies, nougat, macarons, and caramel sea salt fudge—Chef Rick Gresnigt simply doesn’t hold back. We leave Restaurant Céline via the footbridge, enjoying homemade peppermint candies and wearing a broad smile.

Restaurant Céline has changed hands. Rick van Bezooijen took over the establishment in early 2023 and brought in Rick Gresnigt – known from restaurants Simple and De Hoefslag – as head chef. Céline is located in the imposing Fort Jutphaas, which is listed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. It sits on an island and is accessible via a bridge. We are welcomed into a spacious lounge with original brick walls and direct access to the wine cellar. The dining room is furnished in a contemporary style, and the open kitchen at the center is the focal point. Hip club music plays in the background. Our cheerful maître d' and sommelier, Amit Singh, pours us a Besserat de Bellefon Bleu Brut champagne, beautifully effervescent with notes of peach, apricot, and a hint of hazelnut. Alongside it, we order an oyster tasting featuring three preparations: spicy with a chili pepper, umami with sambal vinegar, and a fresh version with cucumber. A good start. The first course is a tartelette filled with North Sea crab and prepared with cut beans. Fresh with a subtle tang. Next, Amit Singh pours an unconventional wine, Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana, a Spanish sherry, to accompany softly cooked Iberico pork served with chermoula, anchovy, samphire tartare, leek, oyster leaf, and an oyster-based beurre blanc. A perfect pairing. Wagyu A5, for which we pay a supplement, arrives with an elegant classic bordelaise sauce, paired with softly cooked endive, pumpkin cream, white lemon, and a rosette filled with Jerusalem artichoke and sweet sambal. What a delicate dish; the meat is so wonderfully tender that it melts in your mouth. For a sweet finish, a ruby chocolate sphere with ganache, goat yogurt ice with elderflower, strawberries and rhubarb, and a small scoop of magnolia granita. Rick stays!

Céline is thriving under the direction of chef-owner Martijn Stoker and hostess-sommelier Stephanie Wennekes (another couple from the renowned Librije stable). They run a vibrant restaurant housed in the historic Fort Jutphaas in Nieuwegein, a site that forms part of the Dutch Water Line dating back to 1820. We are seated comfortably in a stylish, modern setting rich in historical details, with a view into the semi-open kitchen. Along the long bar, a dedicated station prepares amuse-bouches and desserts in full view of the guests. The menu offers a solid selection, while the wine list is well-curated with an impressive range of available glasses, though it leans toward the pricier side. The kitchen delivers high-level cuisine with a strong emphasis on pure, clean flavors. We are quickly treated to exquisite, rich amuse-bouches, including a pani puri topped with tuna tartare and tarragon cream. Absolutely delicious. For the starter, we have beef tartare with basil, kohlrabi brunoise, ginger mayonnaise, and a crunchy element of garlic and red pepper. It strikes a beautiful, subtle balance between flavor and texture. Paired with a Müller-Thurgau from Trentino-South Tyrol, Italy (2021), which complements the dish beautifully. The main course features a perfectly cooked venison fillet—juicy and exceptionally tender. It is served alongside pea purée, rouille, piccalilli cream, and an aromatic reduced jus infused with a hint of chamomile. We scrape our plates clean. The talented young maître sommelier, Amit Singh, pours a lovely Côtes du Rhône Mistral Domaine de Ferrand 2015, notable for its firm tannins. Excellent! One area for improvement is the pacing of service, which could be slightly quicker. Lastly, on pleasant days, you can enjoy your meal outdoors on the charming terrace.

Chef Martijn Stoker en gastvrouw Stephanie Wennekes is er alles aan gelegen om hun gasten op en top te verwennen. Het zit lekker in het tot restaurant verbouwde historische fort aan de rand van Nieuwegein. Een verfijnde inrichting met zachte grijze, roze en paarse tinten, rode klaprozen op de wanden geschilderd, slanke tafels met prima zittende stoelen, linnen servetten, fijn bestek en sierlijk glaswerk. Martijn heeft gewerkt bij topkoks als Jonnie Boer, Martin Kruithof en Jarno Eggen en dat is te proeven in zijn kwalitatief hoogwaardige gerechten; een mix van Franse en Scandinavische kookstijlen. Er is een menu Céline, oplopend in gangen, er zijn signature dishes en een vegetarisch menu. Mousse van ui met limoenblad wordt begeleid door krokant van linzen en wilde rijst met kimchi. Een geraffineerd gerecht met zachte zoeten en zuren. Daarna perfect bereide scholfilet met hangop, granaatappel en een rijke beurre blanc. We drinken er een Saint Péray Version van François Villard bij met een verrassende frisheid en een mooie mineraliteit. Kalfsentrecote, het hoofdgerecht, komt met bietjes, gefermenteerde hazelnoot, kamille, eendenlever en eigen jus. Hoe lekker alles! De portionering is goed en de zwarte brigade heel plezierig in de omgang. Fijn adres.