Fred

Excellent cooking

At Fred, nothing is left to chance. The ambiance on the ground floor of the new Terraced Tower complex, overlooking the Nieuwe Maas, is modern, calming, and elegant. The tables are set with exquisite crockery and precious glassware. Hosts and sommeliers Axel Rosier and Daniël Gravestein have mastered their craft to perfection, Mirjam Mustert seems to have invented hospitality itself, and last but not least: the affable Fred Mustert cooks up a storm without any pretension. The result is refined dishes featuring bright acidity and citrus notes, crafted with rich ingredients where frugality is apparently a foreign concept. The menu is discussed tableside with us, and the wine list is divided into three sections: one for whites, one for reds, and one featuring exclusively Burgundy labels. We begin with a wagyu tartare wrapped in paper-thin slices, accompanied by caramelized shallots, airy mustard foam, and truffle tapenade. Seemingly simple, yet sophisticated in flavor. A glass of Illusion, Blanc de Noir 2023, Ahr from Weingut Meyer-Nakel is poured, pairing seamlessly. We continue with low-temperature cooked sea bass served with a sorrel and aceto balsamico dressing. Fred's kitchen in top form. This is followed by a generous portion of turbot with al dente white asparagus and a beurre blanc infused with bergamot, lamb's lettuce, and finger limes. The Californian Freemark Abbey 2022 Chardonnay from Napa Valley, Oakville, with notes of apricot, peach, and a hint of vanilla, elevates this dish to an even higher level of flavor. The cheese cart is an experience in itself. It is difficult to choose, but selecting the Valençay AOP Fermier, an ash-coated goat cheese, proves to be a perfect choice. Served alongside: slices of brioche toast with raisins. A top-tier venue. Moves up one spot to an 8.

Along the banks of the Meuse in modern Rotterdam, Fred Mustert has developed a highly distinctive style that personally sets him apart at the top. You taste a fully realized signature rooted in classical French cuisine with...

Stylish, trendy, cosmopolitan. Keywords for the exquisitely appointed restaurant of chef Fred Mustert and his wife Mirjam, located on the ground floor of the Terraced Tower, which stands over a hundred meters tall on the Boompjes along the Nieuwe Maas. The generously spaced tables are meticulously set with white linen. The crockery is stunningly beautiful, and the crystal wine glasses are ultra-thin. The large open kitchen is partially partitioned with glass. We are warmly welcomed by Mirjam, who leads us to our table. A stool for our bags is promptly provided. Fred’s culinary style mirrors his personality: pure, featuring rich ingredients, stripped of unnecessary frills, yet refined and generous on the plate. Citrus and bright acidity are hallmarks of his cooking. For an aperitif, we enjoy an Italian sparkling Contadi Castaldi—full, fresh, with a long finish. Our taste buds are immediately awakened by a luxurious amuse-bouche of lobster with a bisque-based cream, a buttermilk and verbena vinaigrette, and unripe strawberry. An absolute hit. After glimpsing the wine bible, which spans three volumes, we gladly entrust the wine selection to our knowledgeable host and sommelier, Axel Rosier, and we have no regrets. The straw-colored Spanish Tomás Postigo Fermentado En Barrica Blanco from 2019 pairs seamlessly with the following menu. We savor tender slices of scallop interspersed with paper-thin radish, surrounded by colorful tomato cubes, dollops of crème fraîche, and a delightful, lightly acidic chive dressing. This is followed by a substantial portion of sea bass cooked at under fifty degrees Celsius, keeping the proteins from coagulating and yielding a firm texture with silk-soft flesh. Accompanied by white and red grapefruit and orange, a frothy beurre blanc with sorrel, and a fennel salad. Simply outstanding. The pièce de résistance is a Bresse chicken roulade, served with perfectly cooked green beans, green asparagus, celeriac wellington, morel sauce, and finished with Tasmanian truffle. It is a wonderful place to linger by the Rotterdam Meuse. And judging by the fully booked weekday lunch, we certainly aren’t alone. Scores a solid 9.

The new location of Fred, situated on the Boompjes and by the Nieuwe Maas, is an oasis of calm. The color scheme, featuring shades of beige and soft green, brown, and wood, exudes great tranquility. Vases filled with beautiful leaf and floral arrangements adorn the corners. Upon entering, you pass a cheese room on the right that naturally draws you in. Work in the semi-open kitchen is intensely focused, yet every arriving guest is warmly greeted with a wave. The neatly set tables leave ample space for the courses to follow. And no matter how simple a dish may appear, owner-chef Fred Mustert knows how to craft something with just a few high-quality ingredients that tastes so extraordinary you hardly believe your palate. Topping everything we tasted was the langoustine served with a light curry oil that offers a sweetish note, forming a perfect pairing with the gently cooked, still-tender langoustine. The melon pearls provide precisely the right touch of sweetness, while the crispy coconut delivers the ideal crunch to accompany it. Simply outstanding. The same applies to the dish featuring sous-vide foie gras topped with slices of scallop. The sauce contains green apple, truffle, hazelnut, and small sourdough croutons. Creativity paired with exceptional enjoyment. For the main course, turbot is presented, generously topped with clusters of firm chanterelles. The foamy sauce is infused with chanterelle powder that imparts an intense umami flavor. Be sure to browse the impressive wine lists. There is one dedicated to white wine, another for red, and a separate champagne selection. Merely reading through them elevates your spirits. Fortunately, Axel Rosier remains grounded, using a straightforward Rotterdam mindset to read his guests and anticipate their needs, serving them beautifully matched wines. Take, for example, the Lievland Chenin Blanc from both old and young vines, which pairs perfectly with the langoustine. A top-tier establishment. It ranks steadily at number 9.

The wall-covering art piece in leather and gold leaf is a true eye-catcher. But that’s not all. The restyling carried out a few years ago for the tenth anniversary introduced several new features, including a striking ceiling light fixture, a climate-controlled wine dome, and beautiful fabric wall coverings. The result is a stylish interior with an elegant ambiance. This elegance also characterizes the guests who come to enjoy the culinary craftsmanship of owner-chef Fred Mustert. His cooking style is classic French with a contemporary twist. You won’t find creamy spreads, purées, or powders on your plate. Instead, you receive incredibly beautiful dishes featuring high-quality ingredients, each one highlighting the craftsmanship of the maestro. Mustert’s signature touch is the use of acidity, which gives the dishes an unmistakable character. We taste tender king crab with avocado, a softly sour herb vinaigrette topped with a generous dollop of Oscietra caviar. Visually stunning and in perfect flavor balance. Just like the perfectly cooked turbot fillet from the main course, surrounded by veal-stuffed morels and Jerusalem artichoke elements presented as a smooth puree and a paper-thin crispy skin. We pair it with a refined biodynamic German Pfalz Spätburgunder from Christmann. Divine. We had to pass on the famous cheese trolley by cheesemonger Sven van Leeuwen because the portions are so generously sized. We conclude the lunch with a strong espresso and crisp, warm madeleines. The service is efficient and carries a pleasant, down-to-earth Rotterdam charm. But don’t be mistaken: everything is flawlessly attended to, and as a guest, you lack nothing. It’s no surprise that this comes with a hefty price tag. But every penny is well spent. Starting in December 2022, the adventure of Restaurant Fred will continue at a new location. Keep an eye on www.restaurantfred.nl for more information. Climbs to number 9.

Fred Mustert’s creative culinary style continues to inspire awe. What he has his efficiently running staff serve up is once again of an exceptionally high standard. It begins with the amuse of raw beef tenderloin. The premium meat, finely sliced and neatly presented, is elegantly paired with piccalilli and sweet-and-sour onion, then finished with a mild mustard cream and sesame seeds. Fresh, sweet, sour and spicy: seemingly simple, yet incredibly delicious. We kick off the menu with raw scallops. Thin slices arrive in a sauce of Noilly Prat, herring roe, and basil oil, topped with cubes of salty hamachi, apple, and avocado. A beautiful dish. All enjoyed in that still contemporary dining room on Honingerdijk – featuring the striking chocolate-brown suspended ceiling with downlights and a neon 'signature', the upholstered pillars and playful artwork, the glass walls offering a view into the kitchen, and the comfortable steel-gray tub chairs at the large round tables dressed in linen. Equally unchanged is the black brigade led by the excellent maître sommelier Joey Lange, backed by the well-trained and particularly skilled duo of Sven van Leeuwen (cheese specialist) and Axel Rosier (restaurant manager). And, thank goodness, still on the menu: Mustert’s signature dish with langoustines. Two substantial pieces, briefly grilled and served with a satisfying bite on a mild curry, melon, cucumber, and coconut foam vinaigrette. Absolutely delightful! Lange pairs it with a fantastic New Zealand Chardonnay (Man o’ War): full-bodied, round, and with toasted oak notes. And robust enough to also stand up to the chosen turbot. Grilled, fresh, perfectly cooked, and expertly seasoned. Accompanied by an earthy side of pickled truffle, chanterelles, and celeriac. Finally, a stunning dish of cherry, Swiss cream, yogurt, and ginger. Fred is simply outstanding!

Owner-chef Fred Mustert, born in Gouda, is passionate about the city of Rotterdam, which he calls a no-nonsense working city. For over ten years now, he has been operating an experimental kitchen on Honingerdijk based on classic French cuisine. On his plates, no purees, powders, or gels, but recognizable seasonal produce when its flavors are at their best. Owner and chef Fred: “The coronavirus crisis made me realize that I still have the most wonderful profession, one perfectly suited to me.” Fred enjoys working with light acidity and prefers crustaceans and shellfish, alongside early-season vegetables. “We source locally and internationally. We work with suppliers who offer the finest quality, often directly from Paris.” Dining at Fred’s is synonymous with an evening of culinary pleasure. Master sommelier Axel Rosier ensures guests lack nothing, providing expert and enjoyable guidance on wine and food pairings. The extensive selection on the wine list makes it a standout for enthusiasts. The interior, refreshed last year, is decidedly cosmopolitan: warm and stylish, with an exclusive atmosphere. A perfect setting for high-caliber lunches or dinners. Also worth mentioning is the climate-controlled wine dome, beautifully integrated into the restaurant and positioned next to the wine table, which can be rented for private gatherings. A top-tier establishment with enduring class.

After years of flavor exploration, artisanal refinement, and innovation, Fred Mustert’s kitchen has reached a state of flawlessness, of perfect elegance. And he carries on; there is no end in sight to his culinary ambitions. In the beautifully renovated dining room, featuring soothing colors, impeccably comfortable armchairs, and white tablecloths, we taste a meltingly tender combination of sea bass, mango, and coconut (served on a seaweed-green plate), alongside tuna with watermelon and dashi, over which wasabi pearls are sprinkled from a “smoking” nitrogen cup. What exquisite flavors, what meticulous attention to ingredients, and what masterful seasoning. Maître sommelier Axel Rosier pairs it with a wonderfully rich yet refreshing Rully from the extensive (and decidedly pricey) wine list. This is followed by turbot with eel—a stunning pairing—accented with a distinct note of basil. And a playful touch from the kitchen: a tiny brioche bun filled with Bresse chicken, styled like a mini burger and served in a Japanese steamer basket with smoking oak moss. The main course features Mirel duck, cooked to absolute perfection, crusted with crushed pistachios and sesame seeds, and accompanied by a beetroot garnish. Truly memorable. To finish, a mille-feuille offering sweet notes of hazelnut and vanilla, paired with a glass of aged Banyuls. On a separate visit, we sample head cheese, ox tongue sausage, avocado, and sweet-and-sour cherry tomatoes with pesto and parmesan cream. Plus, scallops marinated in champagne vinaigrette, served with caviar, crème fraîche, chives, mango, green asparagus, and Noilly Prat. In the glass: Grüner Veltliner Ried Herrenholz (Wieninger, 2017). As a final course, turbot with ox tail, braised chanterelles, gnocchi, mushroom foam, and crispy-fried calf’s sweetbread with goose liver, green asparagus, broad beans, and Madeira jus. Paired with a glass of Chilean Valle del Cachapoal (2016). Sublime! It climbs to position 13 in the Top 100.

The restaurant has been completely restyled by Jeroen Smeele; the color scheme is calming and elegant, and the climate control is optimal. There is also no or virtually no music: the only sound is the soft murmur of the guests and the nearly silent service. The sense of well-being is greater than ever. The kitchen also appears refreshed: the flavor palette of owner-chef Fred Mustert and his head chef Nicolas Belot has grown more intense. Just consider a dish of scallops: marinated in champagne vinaigrette and sliced atop thin-cut foie gras with Iberico ham, Noilly Prat cream, and Anna Dutch caviar. Salt, sour, sweet, briny, earthy, and umami, plus simultaneous softness and bite: a divine combination. Especially when paired with a glass of Beaumard 2006 Savennières, a ripe Chenin Blanc from the Loire that beautifully supports each of those flavors. Then there is the eel with foie gras, apple, beetroot, and smoked eel cream: exemplary fresh acidity alongside perfectly contrasting savory, earthy tones. Foie gras also graces the other plate, presented as a marbré with additional layers of confit duck and ossenworst alongside Japanese peach, hazelnut, and morel cream. This is followed by baked langoustines with celery, melon, beurre blanc, and a mild curry vinaigrette. After such exquisite dishes, the turbot main course almost seems 'ordinary': the fish fillet topped with pulled oxtail and morels, served by Maître Axel Rosier with crispy potatoes, gnocchi, and a morel cream sauce. All of this preceded by amuse-bouches such as a taco with mackerel, corn, and avocado; a macaron of green olive and Iberico ham; and veal steak tartare with sesame and piccalilli. In the glass: Mâcon-Villages Château Fuissé, 2015. Fred climbs two places to number 15.

Consistency with minimal variation guarantees quality: owner-chef Fred Mustert and his kitchen brigade have this firmly under control. Compared to previous years, not much has changed, which perhaps makes certain details stand out even more. The amuse-bouche remains fantastic. The artistic holder featuring bites of salmon, ox-tail sausage, and especially the honey tomato with parmesan awakens a craving for more. As does the crab salad, avocado, and gin-and-tonic granita. And “Fred’s foie gras” on a fork, wrapped in gold foil, with honey, cocoa, and nut brittle. Delicious! But the dishes from the menu are not all served as described. The marbled foie gras, confit duck, and ox-tail sausage lack the hazelnuts and the taste of the promised morels. While each component of the artfully stacked terrine has flavor, the overall impression is somewhat flat. The chef is not present tonight, yet still. Cubes of Iberico ham accompanying the chef’s specialty dish of scallops, caviar, apple, and foie gras overwhelm the delicate flavors, and furthermore, they are tough. The delicious Man O’War Sauvignon Blanc (Waiheke Island, 2015) makes up for a lot. However, the overcooked liver alongside the veal sweetbread indicates that the kitchen is not always sharp. The service also occasionally falters. The beginning is overwhelming, you are inundated with hospitality, but this fades as the evening progresses: long waits for dishes to arrive and to be cleared. Dining at Fred remains an event; your eyes can barely take in all the splendor. Extremely tasty dishes. If these minor shortcomings are addressed, the restaurant will remain a standout. Firmly rated 17.