Flores

Sustainable and innovative cooking with vegetables in the spotlight, in an accessible atmosphere: that is the mission of owner Elroy Slijkhuis. And it has succeeded. Upon entering, the warm and welcoming atmosphere immediately stands out; there is ample time for conversation, and the interior feels cozy: abundant wood, linen on the tables, jars filled with fermenting products everywhere, and the famous drying cabinet for charcuterie. We sit at the bar with a view of the open kitchen and begin, on the recommendation of juice sommelier Anita Hagendoorn, with a house-made non-alcoholic aperitif: kombucha with chamomile and buckwheat foam. Alongside it comes a generous plate of photogenic Koji Greens: 'charcuterie' made from vegetables like radish, carrot, beetroot, parsnip, and kohlrabi, which are pickled, smoked, and fermented with koji cultures. This results in deep, savory flavors reminiscent of meat or cheese. Next arrives pickled and roasted leek, sea buckthorn jelly, pickled leek leaf, and airy tarragon foam, followed by creamy, vibrant green watercress sauce on the left, creamy white hazelnut milk sauce on the right of the plate, and sand dune mushrooms (king oyster mushrooms) and razor clams in the center. Visually stunning and perfectly balanced in flavor. Head chef Luuk Freriks reveals the secret behind the next course: oven-roasted baker’s yeast, forming the base for an irresistible, frothy umami sauce served with bread gnocchi and codium (seaweed). Simply outstanding. The main course consists of slowly braised beef neck with shiso leaves, wild garlic, and poppy seeds in a rich beef sauce. It pairs wonderfully with the Pinot Noir and Cinsault blend from Japanese winemaker Kohki Iwata, based in Languedoc-Roussillon. The finale is refreshingly crisp once more: goat dairy ice cream and sweet amazake (a traditional Japanese beverage made from fermented rice), accompanied by bee pollen sauce, a touch of soy sauce, salsify, and bits of yogurt meringue. Flores is a guaranteed success!

In Flores, nature is not a theme but a way of working. The kitchen relies on local, organic ingredients, house ferments, and a consistently sustainable approach. The wine list also follows this principle, with a wide selection of natural and...

What started as a bistro in his parents' building has been grown by Elroy Slijkhuis, together with his chef Luuk Freriks, into a modern and sustainable restaurant called Flores. Both aim to inspire and develop initiatives that contribute to the transition toward a balanced system, by proving that plant-based eating can be incredibly flavorful and demonstrating how animal products can be consumed responsibly. The term 'bistro' no longer fits, so the name Bistro Flores has since been shortened to Flores. The opening course is impressive: accompanied by a Crémant du Jura from Domaine Dugois comes vegetable charcuterie prepared using koji greens (a self-developed Eastern fermentation starter). The result is a vegetarian charcuterie board bursting with umami. We are thoroughly impressed. This is followed by an array of celeriac preparations, including celeriac toffee infused with leaf cream, topped with a slice of puffed celeriac, fermented celeriac, grated chestnut mixed with celeriac, and finished with Douglas fir. So many layers of distinct textures and flavors, absolutely stunning. Next comes Dutch-grown kingfish (dry-aged, cured, and smoked) served with burdock root, horseradish, apple root, and grated horseradish. A highly surprising dish, elegantly paired with a fine Chardonnay from Domaine de la Renardière Arbois Pupillin Jurassique 2020. The main course features the coachman's cut (the first section of the tenderloin) from Gascon cattle raised in Baambrugge, marinated in shio koji, glazed with a blackberry cider (a by-product of brewery Nevel in Nijmegen), and then barbecued. Served with red cabbage marinated in amazake, glazed with magnolia, and topped with pickled flowers from the same. Accompanied by beef heart from the same cow; cured, dried, and thinly shaved over onion ketjap made from fermented onions. The accompanying jus is crafted from deer carcasses utilized during last winter's season. A masterfully innovative dish. Paired with a juicy Pinot Noir from Japanese winemaker Kohki Iwata. For dessert, brioche baked with Nijmegen city honey, parsnip ice cream, and Dutch vanilla is served alongside black walnut, sour cream, and pickled pear.

Where Grandma and Grandpa Van der Donk once operated a coffee house, and where his parents later took over the establishment, Elroy Slijkhuis now serves as patron and sommelier at the extensively renovated Bistro Flores. The patio has been fitted with a retractable roof, and the former garage has been converted into a wine cellar. Sustainable gastronomy is the guiding principle here, and Chef Jorik Degenkamp makes extensive use of wild fermentations and controlled aging. Guests can choose from multi-course tasting menus. The wine list features numerous labels from small producers crafting wines using natural, biodynamic, or organic methods. The welcome is warm, and the service runs like clockwork. Water, served in retro-style milk bottles, is complimentary. So is the freshly baked sourdough bread with rich brown butter. Delicious! Before the menu arrives, we are served vegetable 'charcuterie' prepared using koji, an Asian fermentation starter. The first course features baked and raw kohlrabi with a black garlic cream and green elderflower oil—a beautifully balanced flavor profile. This is followed by mackerel in a velvety smoked butter sauce with whisky, nestled beneath a bed of broad beans, field peas, and pickled beach rose leaves. Beautiful umami notes that are elevated to new heights by the Pacherhof Valle Isarco, made from 100 percent Kerner grapes. We step away from the planned main course and order a côte de bœuf from a retired Simmental dairy cow. Perfectly cooked and carved tableside. The steak knife is razor-sharp, gliding effortlessly through the buttery tender meat. Served alongside are kimchi-fermented turnip stems, a savory paste of fermented vegetables, and half-moon parsnips with lemon thyme mayonnaise. The whey ice cream with rhubarb root and crispy malt provides a lightly sweet finish that, while less imaginative, still delivers. Nevertheless, Flores continues to thrive, and the restaurant is consistently packed.

Debuted last year and heartily extended this year. Bistro Flores by Elroy Slijkhuis in Nijmegen has already earned a reputation and counts many adherents of sustainable gastronomy, which takes center stage here. Frequent use of fermentations and controlled aging. The wines originate from across Europe, and in the ingenious wine cellar, numerous biodynamic and natural wines are stored under climate control. The decor is stylish, featuring recycled furniture, tables dressed in white linen, candles, potted plants, and background music. A cozy atmosphere prevails and the place is packed. We enjoy our aperitif—a wild-ripened blonde beer and a Crémant du Jura—while seated on the terrace on vintage school bench furniture. Once inside, we sample sustainably farmed, steamed catfish on a bed of nettle with sage sauce and crispy wild spinach. This is followed by roasted lacquered cauliflower with miso cream, whey, elderflower oil, valerian flower, and roasted rye breadcrumbs. Surprising and subtly flavored. The longloin from a retired Simmental dairy cow is seared briefly and remains juicy, served thinly sliced alongside veal jus, skin-on new potatoes, and a shio koji sauce. Paired with a Rietsch Tout Rouge 2020 from Alsace. A wonderful combination. The lemon balm ice cream is homemade and arrives with confit carrot and mint vinaigrette. Simply delicious. Applause for Chef Jorik Degenkamp, who projects a clear vision with passion and creativity.

Owner Elroy Slijkhuis’s love for the hospitality industry runs in the family. It was his grandparents, the Van der Donks, who first opened a coffee shop in the late 1950s, which his parents later took over in the 1980s. Today, Elroy is at the helm of the stylishly designed Flores in central Nijmegen, featuring a lovely patio and a strong focus on sustainable gastronomy. Chef Jorik Degenkamp sources ingredients from small-scale producers, employs efficient and energy-saving cooking methods, and curates a wine list featuring bottles produced using natural, biodynamic, or organic methods. A stunning wine cellar has also been added, where the collection is kept in climate-controlled conditions. All this has not gone unnoticed, as Flores is consistently fully booked and radiates a cheerful atmosphere. Paired with a red-and-white striped paper bag of fermented onion chips, we enjoy an Italian natural sparkling wine: Cinque Campi Terbianc, offering pronounced mineral notes reminiscent of apples and almonds. Next, delicious sourdough bread arrives, served alongside cultured butter. The vegetarian starter features zucchini pickled in kimchi brine, accompanied by a yogurt and kimchi juice cream, toasted sunflower seed pasta, jasmine tea oil, and roasted hazelnuts. Creative, intensely flavorful, and unmistakably the chef’s signature, reflecting his direct influence on the restaurant’s philosophy. Bistro roots shine through in the main course: a six-week dry-aged, juicy côte de boeuf from a retired Zimmentaler dairy cow, served with turnip and carrot purée, dried oyster mushrooms, tarragon oil, mizuna (Japanese mustard salad), veal jus, and marrow. Refined and excellently prepared. Welcome to Lekker!