Barres

Barres has two secret weapons: Sjoerd Dooge, the sommelier with an exceptional wine memory, and chef Edwin Dingemanse, who still masters his signature style of fresh, tangy dishes down to his fingertips. A great duo, indeed. Each visit reveals another step in the interior's evolution. This time, it features numerous shades of blue in the floral decorations and curtains, making the restaurant feel intimate and cozy. The menu offers a multi-course option, but all dishes can also be ordered à la carte. The amuse-bouche of paper-thin chips with piccalilly requires some eating dexterity because the chips are truly very thin, but the flavor is unparalleled. The hand-cut veal tenderloin starter is topped with North Sea crab, dressed with a tom kha kai mayonnaise, and accompanied by a sweet-and-sour relish of kohlrabi, radish, nasturtium leaves, and rice crisp. Delicate and well-balanced. Next comes Iberico pork loin with a concentrated veal jus, served alongside steamed red cabbage leaves stuffed with kimchi and pommes fondant. The 2011 Château Margaux Angludet from the Sichel family is a soft and elegant wine with an intense aroma of blackcurrants and plums. It is slightly smoky with a rich and pure taste, pairing excellently here. Sjoerd articulates every detail of the wine beautifully and delights in the guests' joy upon tasting it. The dessert is a French classic, crêpes Suzette, but with a Barres twist, offering a lovely sweet-tart balance thanks to the fresh, warm orange liqueur sauce. A fine and reliable establishment.

Located at Plein 1940 in the center of Middelburg, Barres is one of several restaurants in the area. Here, chef Edwin Dingemanse prepares delightful dishes, and host and sommelier Sjoerd Dooge presents them with well-reasoned narratives. He also introduces the wines in a pleasant and informative way. We sit comfortably in light gray tub chairs at a table dressed in snow-white linen. The ambiance feels light and serene. Paired with a crisp glass of Leopard's Leap, a 2019 South African blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, comes hand-chopped sea bass tartare with calamansi ceviche. Accompanying it are three rolls of pickled radish filled with homemade kimchi and shaving herb, lime leaf mayonnaise, and calamansi gel, all surrounded by a dressing of lime leaf oil and gooseberry broth. The main course features turbot. Pan-fried in butter, it is served with a sweet-and-sour salad of Jerusalem artichoke and its purée. In the foamy hollandaise, we detect a hint of yuzu. For dessert, there is baba au rhum. Presented atop a mascarpone panna cotta with vanilla, accompanied by a softly sweet pineapple salad, gel, and marinated pineapple. The entire dish is not overly sweet, but beautifully balanced. With the coffee come homemade petit fours. The salted caramel popcorn, which we also found so delicious last time, is back on the menu again. Delicious!

Centrally located in the picturesque town of Middelburg. Host and sommelier Sjoerd Dooge and chef Edwin Dingemanse have truly found their rhythm in this beautiful, spacious building on Plein 1940. Edwin uses classical cuisine as his foundation, playing with international influences from Asia, South America, and Africa. The restaurant was packed during our visit; the atmosphere is cheerful and the acoustics are excellent. We start with fresh sea bass tartare, topped with small marinated chunks of sea bass and a light quinoa salad. Accompanying pear preparations add a refreshing touch, while a buttermilk dressing with kombucha and dill oil perfectly completes the dish. Sjoerd has paired it with a German Nahe Weissburgunder Trocken from Weingut Hees. The steep vineyard plots feature slate in the soil, which gives the wine a crisp, spritzy accent and a lovely structure. It starts off a bit tight, followed by notes of white fruit and pears, which pair beautifully with the dish. Grilled scallops on a chicory tarte tatin with beurre blanc follow. The puff pastry is brushed with a sugar syrup before baking, which caramelizes in the oven, delivering an absolutely delicious soft-sweet, crispy accent. The chicken that follows earns applause. Roasted butter-soft on the bone and served in two parts: the breast and the legs. Served with a garnish of various carrot preparations: mashed, roasted, and in a salad. The accompanying sauce is enriched with tonka bean, lending a refined touch of vanilla and nuts. With the coffee, just like last year, comes the now-famous caramel popcorn made from Edwin’s mother’s recipe, and once again we receive a bag to take home. We love that.