In den Doofpot

Located in the center of Leiden, within walking distance of Leiden Centraal station, is In den Doofpot. The interior exudes a chic atmosphere, with cleverly arranged tables that guarantee privacy. Here, the cooking is rooted in French cuisine but features modern and surprising accents. Guests can choose between a four- or five-course menu. We opt for the complete menu with a wine pairing and begin with two refreshing amuse-bouches, including a tartlet with garden pea, soy, and avocado. It tastes excellent. The starters follow suit. The pickled brook trout with kohlrabi and a crisp made from fried seaweed, served with salmon tartare and small eggs, is very good. You can truly taste the sea. This is followed by red mullet with smoked tomato and a robust bisque. The Valdecuevas Sauvignon Blanc 2023 accompanies both fish dishes with refreshing citrus notes. The main course, guinea fowl presented in three preparations with shio koji, cognac sauce, and creamy sweet potato purée, is classic and substantial. The Brusco dei Barbi 2023 pairs perfectly with it. The dessert is daring: cucumber, dill, lime, and a gin & tonic granita. A refreshing and surprising finish that balances beautifully with the Austrian Tschida Spätlese. The team, led by owner Anton Verschelling and head chef Patrick Brugman, is enthusiastic and welcoming. Their expertise in both food and wine is impeccable. In den Doofpot is an outstanding restaurant. Creative, refined, and stylish. We would gladly return to Leiden!

Located in an elegantly furnished space built from two 17th-century canal houses in the bustling shopping and nightlife heart of Leiden. And frequented by discerning locals, students, and well-informed tourists...

A cozy living-room-style restaurant with classic wooden floors and warm accents, soft jazz playing from the speakers, and young, ambitious professionals who make you feel right at home. IDD overlooks the small harbor of Galgenwater, right in the center of Leiden. Chef Patrick Brugman prepares fresh, innovative cuisine, offering rotating four- and five-course menus. The à la carte menu is equally beautifully curated, featuring contemporary interpretations of occasionally classic dishes. The amuse-bouches leave a strong impression: a crispy roll with lime and guava served alongside a gazpacho made from consommé jelly and whipped cream. A glass of Eradus from New Zealand pairs perfectly with it. The steak tartare offers a composition of diced beef, jalapeño, and pickles, where the acidity noticeably dominates. The same applies to the beautifully pan-seared red mullet served with artichoke, French bean spaghetti, and passion fruit foam, where the sour notes also take center stage. On the other side of the plate, a risotto with curry, pumpkin, and sea buckthorn, accompanied by langoustines. The risotto is a bit on the overcooked side, but the flavors still come through well. Both the starters and main courses are notably modest in portion size. Kudos go out to the deliciously complementary South African Chenin Blanc from Mason Road, which was later generously refilled by the house. Very considerate. We finish off with a creation of raspberry sorbet, white chocolate, and thyme. Beautifully presented, and the flavors are pure. The bill is reasonable for the quality offered, though the portioning feels somewhat unbalanced. Stepping down from the Top 100 this year as newer names claim the top spots.

In den doofpot (IDD) kookt chef de cuisine Patrick Brugman bezield en creatief. Pure smaken spelen de hoofdrol in zijn innovatieve keuken gestoeld op de Frans-klassieke basis. Er is keuze uit een menu exquise met vlees en vis, een vegetarisch groentemenu en keuze à la carte. Het is rustig op de avond van ons bezoek aan deze sympathieke retro-chic ingerichte zaak van twee samengevoegde grachtenpandjes in hartje centrum Leiden. Het vegetarische gerecht van wonton van koolrabi met pompoenchutney is een juweeltje, niet alleen om te zien maar ook qua smaakcombinatie. Zo goed kun je dus met simpele ingrediënten en creativiteit koken! Ook makreeltartaar is voortreffelijk: de superverse vis krijgt begeleiding van fris komkommerijs. Bij de hoofdgerechten is de snoekbaars net niet gaar genoeg, maar dat wordt door de chef elegant hersteld. De vis is lichtgerookt en de stroganoffsaus daarbij intens. Kalfswang en zwezerik is goed bereid en wordt geserveerd met een stevige maderasaus. Jammer alleen dat de groenten erbij wat karig zijn. We sluiten af met een zomers dessert van rood fruit en yoghurt-olijfolie-ijs. IDD biedt bij de menu's exquise en bij het speciale groentemenu (hulde daarvoor) een wijnarrangement aan, wij drinken vanavond een Franse rosé van Bon Vivant, gemaakt van grenache-druif. Onze ober is vanavond gastheer en sommelier tegelijk en kwijt zich professioneel van zijn taak. In tegenstelling tot zijn wat ouderwetse naam, is de sfeer In den doofpot die van een modern lounge-restaurant met zwoele verlichting en bijpassende loungemuziek. Maar het gaat hier op de eerste plaats om het eten en dat is uitstekend. Zakt één plaats naar 85.

New, light-colored armchairs have been added to this pleasant establishment in the city center, making the space appear larger, especially in the section where the two merged 17th-century canal houses flow into one another. The kitchen of head chef and co-owner Patrick Brugman is also located here. He successfully connects with and maintains ties to the new generation of chefs and their contemporary interpretations of classic and world cuisines. Co-owner Anton Verschelling plays a key role in this setting, serving as a gracious host and experienced sommelier. It is always a pleasure to lunch or dine in the atmosphere of yesteryear, featuring green floorboards, a mantelpiece, a fireplace, and mirrors, complemented by modern accents: contemporary art, leather table runners, tufted wall benches, and young service staff. Sommelier Isabel van Bueren pours a 2019 Montagny 1er Cru from Domaine de la Tour alongside welcome canapés featuring Jerusalem artichoke, lemon, and smoked crème fraîche; tomato, burrata, and fermented plum; and raw mushroom, cream cheese, Madeira, and fermented garlic. Delicious flavors and textures, with lovely acidity as well. As a playful nod to Leiden, a dish of herring, white bread, buttermilk, and tarragon arrives – delicious – followed by a combination of seared langoustine with “pouches” of pumpkin spiced with curry and kumquat. Bathed in a bergamot sauce. A true beauty. Next comes brook trout, served with potato, bone marrow, caviar, and a smoked trout jus, while the pièce de résistance is butter-soft poached Anjou pigeon, accompanied by pear, breakfast cookie, and its own jus. In the glass: Clarendelle Rouge (Bordeaux, 2015). To finish, a harmonious union of vanilla ice cream, ginger, lime leaf, and walnut. Soft, sweet, and crunchy.

Located on a canal in the heart of Leiden, formed by combining two 17th-century buildings, it features its own terrace and a private tour boat. The space blends the ambiance of yesteryear, with green floorboards, a fireplace, an open hearth, and mirrors, with that of today, featuring contemporary art, calf-leather table runners, and upholstered wall benches. For years, In den Doofpot has captivated a diverse mix of foodies, businesspeople, tourists, university staff, students, and their parents. Hosts Anton Verschelling (host-sommelier) and Patrick Brugman (executive chef) remain attentive, ensuring excellent wines and well-balanced modern-classic dishes. It is fascinating to watch the chef’s evolution; constantly seeking out surprises and new flavor combinations, he continues to refine his craft. This is evident in the “Ode to Leiden” menu, which opens with a tomato shooter served with pink peppercorns and dill. It is followed by three preparations of Leiden cheese: a mustard foam, a crispy version with peas, and a pizza-style dish with chorizo and almonds. Finally, there is a playful nod to traditional herring served with white bread. The new sommelier, Isabel van Bueren, transitions from a New Zealand Eradus Sauvignon Blanc to a powerhouse wine: the straw-yellow 2016 Condrieu La Chambée by Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard. The flavorful course of lamb with baba ganoush, harissa, and mint jus is rounded off with a vibrant dessert of yogurt, red fruit, and rose. Simply outstanding, right there on the Galgewater.

Dining is a pleasure at this establishment by Anton Verschelling, which comprises two merged and fully restored buildings in the historic center of Leiden. In den Doofpot is frequented by university staff, students, businesspeople, and tourists. Patrick Brugman is the head chef and leads a team of five passionate chefs who are constantly exploring surprising flavor combinations and culinary innovations. A new menu is created each month, featuring seasonal produce that comes, among other sources, from their own greenhouse. The kitchen works with premium ingredients such as lobster, pikeperch, veal, and pigeon. Additionally, a fully vegetable-based menu is offered. The wine list is downright spectacular. No fewer than 450 labels are featured on it, and PT Wine-Director and sommelier Michiel de Vries provides expert and enthusiastic guidance on the extensive selection.

A whisper boat for canal tours with dining parties, alongside a municipal promise that the busy road outside will become a pedestrian zone with its own outdoor terrace. This makes owners Anton Verschelling and Patrick Brugman, host-sommelier and head chef, even happier about this location: two merged buildings in the historic center, by the water, newly decorated and frequented by university affiliates, students (and parents), businessmen, and tourists. Last year, the establishment entered the Top 100, and that ranking remains solid. Brugman is a driven chef who builds upon classical training to add worldly accents to his recipes. Such as the simple yet delicious welcome bites of watermelon with a touch of feta and basil, and raw mushrooms with cream cheese and madeira. The amuse-bouches of mussel with pea, passion fruit, and mint, and tortellini filled with forest mushrooms, ginger, and époisses also earn applause. Verschelling pairs them with a pleasant 2016 Chardonnay from Domaine Olivier. More delicacies arrive on the page-filling vintage leather 'tablecloth': à la minute smoked monkfish with yellow and red curry, jalapeño cream, and puffed yellow rice. Simply delicious! Just like the kohlrabi wonton filled with lobster, served with miso, grapefruit, and tarragon. In the glass now, a classic wood-aged Meursault (Domaine Doreau, 2015): round and mouthfilling. Perfectly suited also for wild sea bass with white wine risotto, razor clam vinaigrette, and coffee. What beautiful flavors. The pièce de résistance is ravioli with lamb rib and slow-cooked lamb neck, asparagus, and romesco sauce. Tender meat accompanied by a glass of dark red Tuscan Rosso Ceppitaio 2017. Finally, a plum soufflé with accompaniments of plum, almond, and basil. In den Doofpot rises six places to 80.

Head chef Patrick Brugman, now co-owner, forms the backbone of this appealing establishment in the historic city center alongside proprietor Anton Verschelling. Operating under the shortened name ‘IDD’, the restaurant boasts an excellent kitchen led by Brugman, who continues to flourish in his role, exemplary service, and Verschelling’s phenomenal wine knowledge. We begin with an egg filled with cod brandade, hollandaise foam, ponzu, and potato crisps; a pastry crisp stuffed with steak tartare and piccalilly foam; and a choux pastry accompanied by forest mushroom duxelles. Delightful opening bites. Verschelling pairs them with a crisp Albariño from Pionero Maccerato 2016. The starter is a sockeye salmon ballotine with green herbs and horseradish ice, over which the chef grates fresh horseradish tableside. Simply delicious! After the eel with hoisin, carrot, and duck liver comes the main course: beef fillet with rendang, polenta, and rendang jus. The meat is cooked until melt-in-the-mouth, and the rendang features wonderfully shredded meat. Paired with a dark red Rhône Syrah Barou 2016. To finish, a sweet-and-sour medley of melon, yogurt, and kalamansi served with a glass of Chilean De Martino 2006. On a subsequent visit, we sample freshly prepared smoked monkfish with yellow curry and jalapeño: an absolute home run. The paper-thin, lightly salted fish slices arrive under a glass cloche. For the black chicken main course, the kitchen takes a dual classic approach: a rose-braised breast seasoned with garlic and shallots, accompanied by a reduced jus with a touch of cognac, followed by a dumpling filled with slowly braised, lightly spiced red wine–cooked meat. ‘IDD’ rises to 86th place in the Lekker Top-100.