Lekker500 — 6
Opened in 2021 and now firmly among the finest establishments in Dutch gastronomy. Chef Bas van Kranen, originally from Limburg, is raking in (green) stars under the roof of Hotel De L’Europe in Amsterdam. Booking requires patience, as this small restaurant features just eleven tables and demand to dine here is through the roof. The best seats are by the window, offering views of the canal and the Munttoren. Bas practices conscious fine dining, representing an extremely sustainable and original approach to working with what Mother Nature has to offer. He avoids dairy and beef. Fish, crustaceans, and shellfish are served only in season. The menu lists some ingredients for each dish, but upon departure you receive an envelope containing the fully itemized menu, allowing you to calmly review it at home. Because quite a lot happens on the plate. We choose the Ocean menu, featuring fish, crustaceans, and shellfish, along with vegetables, fruits, flowers, young shoots, and nuts, and dive into the adventure. The signature dish, featuring over twenty-five varieties of vegetables, fruits, and flowers prepared in different ways (pickled, brined, cooked, raw, steamed), drizzled with a watercress oil dressing and quince sauce, plus roasted hazelnuts and white miso, is truly impressive. We are invited to enjoy this dish in the kitchen. Bas has his chefs provide a detailed explanation. Quite approachable, and it highlights his engagement and team spirit. All dishes are a feast for the taste buds, but the turbot stands out as truly memorable. The fish is dry-aged and wrapped in hoja santa leaves (Mexican pepper leaf). On the plate, a piece of fillet and a piece of wing that is fattier. The recommendation is to eat both combined. Served alongside is a golden-yellow puree made from various peppers: aji amarillo, aji mirasol, and aji panca from Mexican and Peruvian cuisine. Without any heat, but with a lovely floral flavor. In the center of the puree sits a flower salsa and a touch of caviar. Surrounding it is a jus made from roasted turbot heads. What a wealth of flavors on the plate. Accompanying it is a 'taco' made from Indian pepper leaf, filled with flowers, fresh apricot, and coriander. In the glass, a Merga Victa from Croatia made from Posip, a long-forgotten but light-bodied grape variety. The wine has undergone considerable oak aging, which brings it into excellent balance. In perfect harmony with the turbot. Simply world-class. Rises to a 6.