The story
Schwarzer Adler at Badbergstraße 23 in Vogtsburg holds one Michelin Star (2026) for its Badische and classic French cooking. The inn is the Stammhaus of the Franz Keller family, who have farmed vines, kept house and traded wine in the Kaiserstuhl for generations.
Head chef Christian Baur carries a long culinary tradition, and young Konstantin Keller now works alongside him. The French kitchen here is classical with modern touches, which earned four Kochlöffel (2026) from the Schlemmer Atlas. A tasting menu is offered, as are contemporary takes on à la carte dishes from Baden and French haute cuisine.
Foie gras terrine has a loyal following. So does braised oxtail with pan-fried duck liver, and pigeon from Theo Kieffer served with salmis sauce. The truffled Bresse chicken is baked in a sea salt crust or cooked sous-vide.
The list is unusually extensive, and Der Feinschmecker ranks it among the best in Germany. The family's own winery sits at the heart of it, backed by a wine trade that has dealt mainly in the great wines of France for over a century. The dining room is wood-paneled and elegantly set, with classic table culture. A hotel with its own rooms is part of the same house.
Recognition
Ambience
Location