Krevette

The catch of the day is looking good for captain Ladeyn, the unstoppable lover of locavore eats! The restaurateur responsible for Bierbuik , Bloempot and L’Auberge du Vert Mont in and around Lille, as well as Klok in Brussels, has now cast his net over a former bistro near Jean-Baptiste-Lebas Park. Outfitted in stainless steel, this lively spot is led by chef Laure de Kervenoaël (ex-Mermoz and Sola in Paris), who never runs out of playful, seafood-forward ideas. The day we went for lunch, seated on one of the high bar stools, the lineup included: delicate leeks in a honey and parsley vinaigrette, topped with plump Zeeland mussels and toasted buckwheat; memorable binchotan-grilled cuttlefish served with smashed potatoes and a silky lobster bisque – or a stunning plate of pan-seared scallops, lounging on a bed of smoked raw cream and paired with roasted butternut squash and purslane; before an audacious yet no less enjoyable crème brûlée infused with fresh horseradish. Expect even more briny treats from 5:30pm onward (starting with oysters dressed in samphire vinegar and buckwheat), while hot dishes begin rolling out of the kitchen at 7pm – like the already-iconic Colbert-style red mullet or the photogenic breaded sardines. · Maude Zarella