L'épicerie Nomad

good quality, good value cooking

Ceci n’est pas une épicerie… at least it’s not an épicerie anymore. Within these walls, you’ll now find the latest restaurant from Jean Callens, a chef who has cooking in his blood, and who reestablished himself in the Ixelles neighborhood after leaving his Callens Café. Located a few meters from Audrey Hepburn’s birthplace (an anecdote to sprinkle into the conversation at your next dinner party), the chef has preserved all the warm features of a neighborhood épicerie (a big counter, a timeless Berkel scale) to welcome customers in as he would to his own home. And the plates are a journey: tuna tataki with a sesame crust, which almost felt meaty, served with peppers, leeks and soy beans cooked in a wok, all of which could have used a little more seasoning; burrata pimped out with truffle cream, arugula and eggplant, plus fried leek tops, which was also a little on the timid side; but some truly beautiful braised octopus with potato and chorizo mash; and for dessert, coconut rice pudding infused with lemongrass, as lovely as it was generous, with a caliente chili coulis and crispy sesame crumble topping. // Bobby Lapinte