Catch at the Old Fishmarket

Weymouth’s harbourside is suddenly looking a tastier proposition these days – thanks in part to this ambitious set-up. The restaurant is in a traditional quayside building above a working fishmonger called Weyfish, with a solid spiral staircase leading up to an impressively clean-lined, modern yet atmospheric space with an open kitchen and high-raftered ceiling. The kitchen itself is now run by chef-patron Ben Champkin (whose CV includes a stint as sous-chef at L’Enclume), who is shoring up Catch’s reputation for ‘locally sourced, amazingly creative seafood’. Visitors are quick to give a wholehearted thumbs-up to his supplies of fresh fish (some coming from the boats moored directly outside) and the consignments of locally reared meat from named suppliers that feature on the tasting menus. To start, there might be citrus-cured monkfish with yoghurt or braised squid croquettes dressed with pork fat (the cephalopods caught by a certain Kelvin Moore in his boat Rampant , WH148). A serving of dark wholemeal sourdough could usher in potted crab with hollandaise and broth or Bay prawns with celeriac and whey, although the centrepiece (aka ‘The Catch’) is always something ‘freshly landed, local, seasonal and tidal’ – depending on the boats. A refreshing sweet-savoury pre-dessert might feature golden beetroot sorbet paired with orange sherbet, before a full-blown confection such as baked dark chocolate with sourdough ice cream brings the curtain down. Service earns special praise from readers, who rightly appreciate the team of hard-working staff – ‘they should be very proud of themselves,’ noted one fan. Shorter menus are also available at lunchtime and early evenings, while the sharp list of European and English wines offers great value from around £30.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence