House of Tides

High quality cooking

Opened in 2014, House of Tides is the original flagship of Kenny Atkinson (of Great British Menu and Saturday Kitchen fame). It's a capacious venue occupying a 16th-century former merchant’s house by the Tyne and incorporates an atmospheric ground-floor bar and anteroom with a flagstone floor, plus a first-floor dining room more comfortably furnished with wooden flooring and modern art on white walls. The tasting menu can be modified for various diets (and vegetarians have their own list), but otherwise there’s no choice. To start, a tempting gougère with warming baba ganoush and harissa filling (served downstairs) indicated the delicacy this kitchen can achieve. Many dishes contain a multitude of ingredients, several unmentioned on the terse menu, but it's questionable whether every component deserves its place. Did the sharp, pickled vegetable topping simply overwhelm a lovely creamy tasting of celeriac velouté? Was the tiny cube of smoked eel needed on the meltingly satisfying rissole of pulled pork matched with tart apple? And wouldn’t salt crystals have been preferable to caviar, topping a tender roundel of venison tartare (cleverly combined with crunchy smoked beetroot and tiny pickled shimeji mushrooms)? The jury is out. In contrast, praise is unalloyed for the sourdough bread and cultured butter (both are bought in), and at inspection, the fish and meat ‘main courses’ showed flashes of brilliance and a mastery of technique. ‘Stone bass, mussels, salsify and dill’ featured a sublime oblong of fish (seared skin, succulent flesh), with a crunchy roasted salsify log in a dill and fish sauce – creativity manifested in an eye-opening blob of intense (and disarmingly sweet) lemon verbena gel. Likewise, a pink, juicy helping of duck was complemented by squash (both puréed and roasted), resilient hen of the woods mushrooms and a piquant blob of black garlic. Puddings – as with every dish – are beautiful to behold: a luxurious cube of orange chocolate covered with melting roasted chestnut shavings (a nice wintry touch) and set off by tiny leaves of Thai basil; and a blackberry and fig tart topped with croissant ice cream, tangy apple caramel and candied pecans, made prettier still with marigold flowers. The wine list is extensive and service from a young team is eager (if uncertain). Yet with the sun shining brightly at Atkinson’s latest venture, Solstice, it seems that this one-time front-runner is starting to fade.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence