Wiltons Restaurant

Bespoke Savile Row tailoring and Churchill shoes aren’t obligatory, but you can expect a frosty reception if you turn up at Wiltons in jeans and a baseball cap. For some, this male-dominated bastion of high decorum and velvety luxury is an archaic curio; for others, it is a sheer heaven: ‘Service was impeccable, the room temperature perfect, the tables immaculately laid with fine cutlery on linen, the noise levels subdued. I really was in food paradise.’ The menu is blue-blooded British by persuasion, but with strong European allegiances and a few seasonal variations. Wiltons began life as a shellfish stall in the 18th century, and its history dictates that seafood is king here – which means briny molluscs and crustacea from British waters, smoked salmon carved to order, voluptuous grilled turbot on the bone, and the occasional modern idea such as Cornish cod with onion squash, salt cod and seaweed. Otherwise, seasonal game is a must for those who love the fleshy thrills of grouse, mallard or slow-braised venison with chestnuts, quince and salsify. Prices are sky-high, although a lunchtime set menu provides blessed relief for those on more limited budgets: at its heart is the carving trolley loaded with gargantuan roast joints ranging from honey-glazed gammon or rack of Blythburgh pork to rolled sirloin of beef – ‘so tender and full of flavour’. There’s no stinting when it comes to the number of slices you’re given, and it’s worth the extra outlay for sides such as creamy mash, spinach or celeriac purée. Your choice of dessert will be determined by the season: a sensational Pimm’s jelly in summer, perhaps; Wiltons’ legendary bread and butter pudding in winter. The wine list is heavy with vintage clarets and Burgundies from the great years at intimidating mark-ups – although fine drinking is assured.