45 Jermyn St

In a restaurant-rich slice of central London, there’s something reassuringly old fashioned about this self-confident restaurant (part of Fortnum & Mason but with its own entrance on Jermyn Street) – and that’s a large part of its charm. It’s smart, not overly dressy, with striking red banquettes and a big marble-topped bar, and comes across as somewhere that supports special occasions as much as quick business lunches. Open all day, every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the assembled crowd is tempted by classics such as steak tartare, Dove sole meunière and pitch-perfect calf’s liver with onions and bacon. This is the place if your fancy turns to savouries such as Scotch woodcock or Gentleman’s relish on toast, or bon ton luxuries including oscietra caviar. The kitchen also injects a little modernity with the likes of venison and mushroom dumplings with bone broth, ginger and chilli, or artichoke and golden beetroot salad with cashew-nut ricotta and tiger’s milk – ‘something for everyone’ is a fair description of the menu. Finish with ice cream coupes, floats, knickerbocker glory or a well-made chai-spiced custard tart with yoghurt and honey sorbet. Drink imaginative house cocktails or choose from an interesting wine list with an excellent by-the-glass selection. Mark-ups are high but the informed sommelier gives good advice.