Wild Honey St James

High quality cooking

Modernist lighting, high-toned detailing and lots of elegant curves – the former bar area of Wild Honey makes a suitably swanky backdrop for Anthony Demetre's more informal spin-off and is ‘a lovely space to pop in for a drink or a longer meal’. Arguably, the biggest draw is the bargain prix-fixe of just two choices at each course, offered from noon to 6.30pm, but the much pricier carte is vital and seasonal, filled with enticing and irresistible dishes. The menu makes no bones about its Francophilia, but there are modern touches along the way and the quality of the produce is outstanding. You can, of course, opt for just a burger with fries or merguez sausages with lyonnaise potatoes, but should three courses beckon, a salad of autumn leaves with pear, walnut and soft cheese dressing is deliciously new wave, while pork, chicken and duck terrine ‘en croûte’ is a typically classic opener. The standout at our lunch was rabbit à la moutarde, fall-apart meat simmered in white wine and mustard, with a side of crushed charlotte potatoes in spiced brown butter – though we found similar contentment in a dessert of light, creamy tiramisu. Staff are admirably well versed in the niceties of their trade and there’s a serious dedication to the drinks side of things, from perfect Negronis to an exemplary choice of wines by the glass. And if you decide to drop by between 5pm and 7pm (aka ‘cinq à sept’), you can order a glass of the day’s red or white with a choice of ham or cheese croquettes for £11.

As dining rooms go there can be few more striking than this dramatic double-height space on the ground floor of the Sofitel St James Hotel. It's very grand, in a famous Parisian brasserie kind of way – a smart, polished environment that caters for a well-heeled crowd. Anthony Demetre remains a hands-on presence and a key part in the friendly, welcoming atmosphere that keeps guests coming back for more. His kitchen continues to turn out a mix of French classics with gentle modern touches and a fierce adherence to the seasons. Wild mushroom tart served with a fricassée of wild mushrooms and hazelnut sabayon, or crispy chicken with hand-cut macaroni and black winter truffles, typify the fresh, lively flavours that could be followed, perhaps, by fallow deer and slow-cooked celeriac with walnut and cocoa, kumquat marmalade and a grand veneur sauce. Finish with the signature wild-honey ice cream served with Bermondsey raw honeycomb, warm honey and lemon madeleine, though for some reporters, the sweet comfort of a classic custard tart can’t be beaten. The set lunch and pre-theatre menu is splendid value. There’s a serious dedication to drinks, too, with well-tailored cocktails and a wine list that takes in a sweeping global shuffle, lingering longest in France.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence