Jamavar

High quality cooking

Taking its name from the intricate 16th-century lace shawls of Kashmir, this lavish Mayfair spot has become a ‘beacon for those seeking both luxury and authenticity’ – a meticulously orchestrated celebration of India’s culinary heritage in the heart of London’s West End. Inside, colonial grandeur meets modern flair with soft, warm lighting, swathes of marble, mother of pearl inserts and gorgeous, carefully curated artworks. Jamavar’s refined, sophisticated design chimes perfectly with the food, which offers indulgence, invention and meticulous attention to detail – especially when it comes to sourcing prime seasonal produce. Small plates pull in ideas and flavours from across the Subcontinent, with the peppery bite of a perfectly crisp, garlicky soft-shell crab vying with kathal bhel – an inventive twist on the classic theme with jackfruit, tamarind and sun-dried tomato taking centre stage (‘it’s street food, yes, but not as you know it,’ thought one reporter). Elsewhere, there is a lusciously rich Malvani prawn curry in a velvety coconut-infused sauce, while dum tarkari biryani is a fragrant delight with its delicate blend of spices and subtle nuances. Or look to the tandoor for a version of chicken tikka enlivened with sweet basil, pickled radish and yoghurt or dip into the roster of curries – perhaps butter chicken or laal maas (eight-hour slow-cooked Hampshire lamb shank with Rajasthani chilli). Skilfully crafted sides such as gobhi mutter (cauliflower with peas) add extra layers of taste and texture to proceedings, while desserts are guaranteed to delight and surprise – as in a pistachio milk cake strewn with rose petals or mango rasmalai (‘a work of art’ combining a light wheat biscuit with mango cream and a tangy chutney). To drink, one reporter enjoyed the refreshing ‘tropical escapism’ of a Lychee Cooler, although the hefty international wine list offers more than 25 tempting selections by the glass.