The story
Andria sits at 5 Lower Street in Dartmouth, a modern European restaurant built around small plates. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand in 2026 for good quality, good value cooking, and it remains a neighbourhood restaurant a short walk from the quayside.
Head chef Luca Berardino cooks in full view of the chef's table, in an open kitchen with a wood-fired barbecue. The Good Food Guide places the cooking somewhere between Italy and France. Smaller plates form the core of the menu, and the larger ones tend toward heartier cuts.
The Good Food Guide describes beetroot with Saint Agur, apple and Gewürztraminer, and Torbay scallops with lime and coconut among the starters. Mains have included Black Angus fillet with beef fat rösti. For dessert, sticky toffee pudding comes with Earl Grey sauce and ginger sorbet. Fully dressed Sunday roasts are a regular draw for weekend diners.
The chef's table is upstairs in a purpose-built kitchen dining room, with guests seated around one communal table. Luca talks through the multi-course tasting menu as he cooks, and the room seats up to 8, or up to 10 for private dining. The downstairs restaurant offers a la carte service, plus a £35 set tasting at lunch on weekdays. Wines are available by the glass from £6, with bottles from £24.
Recognition
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good quality, good value cooking
Just off the quayside in Dartmouth is Luca Berardino's welcoming neighbourhood restaurant, 'a little jewel' in the estimation of one confirmed regular. There is a chef's table, but nobody will be expected to genuflect to a presiding genius; instead, diners lap up the chance of getting a little closer to the engineering of hearty food, some of it prepared on a wood-fired barbecue. The orientation of the cooking is somewhere between Italy and France, with enterprising small plates the core of the operation. Expect anything from a high-powered assembly of beetroot, Saint Agur cheese and apple dressed in Gewürztraminer or Torbay scallops with lime and coconut to Jerusalem artichokes and goat's curd in truffled vinaigrette or slow-roasted cabbage and ajo blanco. When the plates get bigger, they come bearing the likes of Black Angus fillet with beef fat rösti, artichoke and spinach in classic red wine jus. At the close of business, consider sticky toffee pudding with Earl Grey sauce and ginger sorbet or an Italian mash-up of espresso-laced affogato, zabaglione and vanilla ice cream. Fully dressed Sunday roasts are an abidingly popular recourse for weekenders tired of loading the dishwasher. Everything on the rough-and-ready wine list is available by the glass (from £6), while bottles start at £24.
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