1921 Angel Hill

The calm persona of chef-patron Zack Deakins pervades every corner of this unruffled and lovely place, filtering through to a bevy of warm and friendly staff as well as laying a restraining hand on the pricing – especially at lunch, which is ‘outstandingly good value’ at £29 for three courses (with choice). You realise it's a steal, because the dishes are as exquisitely and thoughtfully composed as those from the tasting menu or the evening carte. A flight of canapés sets the tone – endearing, appetite-pricking mouthfuls such as a mushroom croquette with quail’s egg or a tuna and anchovy cracker. After that, readers have enjoyed impeccable, artfully presented dishes ranging from lamb tartare with smoked yoghurt and sourdough croûtons to grilled grey mullet served with chorizo, clams and runner beans – aided by generous amounts of dill and caraway bread for mopping up any juices. Dinner raises the bar higher, celebrating the seasons and ushering in the likes of Mersea crab accompanied by pickled mooli, apple and black sesame ahead of a richly autumnal collation of venison loin with blackened onion, roasted pear and a ragoût of the shoulder meat. To finish, chocolate-loving fans have drooled over the crémeux with griottine cherry ice cream, although the kitchen also rings the changes with modern conceits such as a verdant dill parfait pointed up with green apple and salted goat’s milk. Wines roam familiar territories, making a detour to Japan’s Yamanashi province for Grace Wine’s ‘fresh, textured’ white made from the indigenous Koshu grape, before ascending to a 2015 Margaux (Château Cantenac-Brown).

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence