1 York Place

A buzzy addition to Clifton's restaurant scene, this neighbourhood bistro from chef Freddy Bird (of Littlefrench fame) is already a big hit with the locals – so we suggest booking well ahead to guarantee a table. Inside, it's a relatively small space, with closely packed, unvarnished pine tables and an attractive spiral staircase linking the ground floor and (windowless) basement dining areas. Walls are a soothing beige, with dried foliage displays and the occasional mounted animal head providing interest. We found the service rather hit and miss, although others have been well looked after – and there's no argument when it comes to the quality of the cooking. Those who fondly recall Bird’s Moro-influenced food at the old Clifton Lido will enjoy the broader European influences on display here – as in a main course of spatchcocked poussin and roast calçots served with chunky romesco sauce. From snacks and 'sharers' to desserts, the menu has something for all palates and preferences. Crispy fried mussels with winter tomato and caper dressing makes a good opener before you get stuck into a mighty shared platter of Himalayan salt-aged rump cap or Pyrenean lamb shoulder with anchovy onions and garlicky fried potato. To conclude, we recommend the fresh and fragrant Amalfi lemon set cream (an utterly indulgent treat). As an accompaniment to the food, Freddy Bird has put together a lengthy, mainly European wine list with plenty of bottles for special occasions as well as a decent assortment by the glass.