The Angel

Once home to the only Abergavenny man ever to become Mayor of London, the Angel is a classic late-Georgian coaching inn with pillared entrance and flying flags – a sturdy-looking monument to the graces of hospitality. Its main dining space, the Oak Room, adorned with colourful modern paintings, plays host to Wesley Hammond's resourceful cooking, but a table in the courtyard on a sunny day makes for its own kind of contentment. The choice is as vast as people would expect to see in a pub/hotel dining room, with starters ranging from favourites such as crab cocktail to San Daniele ham with figs and Camembert, while main courses bring on pan-fried skate wing with parsley potatoes and caper sauce, burgers, dry-aged steaks and venison haunch in sauce Diane with colcannon mash. Wye Valley asparagus is welcomed in like an old friend when its season comes around each year. Finish with tarte tatin and amaretto ice cream or chocolate nemesis with clementine sorbet; otherwise, plump for the three-part ‘café gourmand’ selection of mini desserts. Everything is served in an atmosphere of infectious jollity, with Sunday lunches offering a particularly valued local resource. The hotel is also known for its afternoon teas and high teas. A serviceable range of wines comes in three glass sizes as well as by the bottle (check out the Welsh representatives from White Castle Vineyard in Llanvetherine), and the bartender's full-throttle Negroni is made with Tanqueray gin.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence