blooms

Excellent cooking

He is the quiet and rather concealed star of the grand culinary showcase at The Dolder Grand. Set within the intimate confines of a suite, Atsushi Hiraoka prepares his Omakase menu for just half a dozen guests. They take their seats at a refined counter, where hostess Yoshiko cultivates a highly pleasant atmosphere with her attentive yet discreet demeanor. The interplay between composed dishes, sashimi, and nigiri builds an extraordinary sense of progression. Even the opening course reveals the caliber of Hiraoka-san’s craft: he merges king crab, miso, a traditional vinegar-infused egg yolk sauce, trout roe, caviar, and aromatic shiso leaves into a crisp yet creamy preparation with a gentle heat. Arriving warm and in perfect umami balance, the wagyu broth with mushrooms sets the stage. The Japanese omelette (dashimaki tamago), assembled with admirable patience and accompanied by black truffle and glazed eel, aims to be a rich, comforting dish but lands slightly too heavy-handed. Hiraoka pairs the emperor fish, uncommonly seen locally, with a masterful ear for harmony: lightly earthy and grassy tonburi, kiwi, bell pepper, shiso, radish, a mandarin reduction, and Japanese chili form a fruity, restrainedly sweet foundation accented by delicate heat and acidity. The notoriously challenging abalone is transformed into a delight through a two-hour simmer in sake; fried silken tofu, crispy feather kelp, dashi, and a hint of potato bring this nearly poetic dish to completion. After the sashimi platter showcasing three distinct cuts of Balfegó tuna, a shio koji–marinated zander arrives with vegetables, two mildly spicy persimmon sauces, and peppery wild spinach, followed by a thin slice of A5 Kumamoto wagyu briefly poached in a light broth. True to tradition, the meal closes with sushi; the nigiri topped with masu salmon, Japanese emperor mackerel, or scallop rest on a perfectly proportioned bed of rice and are finished with an extraordinary red sushi vinegar distilled from sake lees. It is these meticulous details and a striking command of technique that elevate the Japanese dining experience at Mikuriya to an exceptional level.

Weather warning! Rain is forecast, and guests are being asked by phone to arrive a little earlier. "Blooms" is a hidden, elegant garden restaurant in the "Dolder Grand" featuring a fiery red steel sculpture by Keith Haring right in the center. On fine days, diners feast on six islands at the edge of the woods, nestled among vegetable beds, herbs, and shrubs. Chef Robin Briner hits the turbo, simply serving the menu a bit faster, and sure enough: we even spoon up the dessert (apple ragout, apple sorbet, shiso, sake) while still staying dry. Who runs the kitchen at "Blooms" becomes apparent already with the first of five (!) amuse-bouches: star chef Heiko Nieder writes the menu. "The vegetable consommé" is served, an ice-cold bestseller from his 19-Michelin-star restaurant. "A powerhouse, bold and clear," says the boss, tossing just about everything seasonal into the pot. Also excellent: "Sugar Snaps," a sugar snap pea stuffed with coconut yogurt, accented with lime and licorice gel. For the first course, the tweezers take a back seat to the sharp knife: "Green Tatar"! Zucchini, avocado, and lettuce, diced into small cubes, delivered with a noticeable kick on the second bite. "Well-balanced heat makes a dish more cosmopolitan, more international," says Chef Heiko. This philosophy extends to the tomato-strawberry salad with peperoncini and pumpkin seeds. At "Blooms", radishes are not your average radishes. A white mountain potato foam is poured over them, along with hints of white coffee. Freddy Christiandl supplies the premium root vegetable. "And coffee," notes Heiko Nieder, "is also a spice to me." For the main course, there's a generous cabbage roll filled with herbs, paired with a surprising shallot-cumin jus. Alternatively: cauliflower with coconut, green curry, ginger, and spring onions. "Kilometer zero" can be taken quite literally at "Blooms". The chefs pluck herbs and edible flowers for the vegetarian and vegan dishes à la minute directly from the garden. Wild strawberries grow right beside the tables in remarkably high quality. Heiko Nieder's accompanying dessert creation features garden fruits with olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, and Château Galoupet.

Our recommendation: head up to Dolder Mountain and savor life and the Loup de mer on the dream terrace of the second restaurant, Saltz. Bianchi sources the Atlantic sea bass, Chef Julian Mai prepares it with a steady hand, and the service also delivers a dramatic presentation: they crack the 1.2-kilogram fish out of its aromatic "Saltz" salt crust using a golden (!) hammer. The Loup de mer is served "to share"; we enjoyed the sauce (herb beurre blanc), while the side dish came as something of a surprise: saffron risotto, which was "too heavy" for the delicate fish. As noted on the menu, an Atlantic sea bass baked in a salt crust requires 50 minutes of preparation, but the wait is easily made worthwhile. For example, with the "Chef's Selection" from the "Small Bites" section: guacamole cornet, croustade with Swiss Wagyu tartare and Belper Knolle, and Gillardeau oysters with red wine shallot vinaigrette. A masterpiece: a massive bao bun with pork belly, kimchi, and an impressive kick of heat. Since Saltz is also a hotel restaurant, a few classics must not be missing for international guests: the Viennese schnitzel from Swiss milk-fed calf, served with an exemplary potato-cucumber salad. Zurich-style veal strips with mushrooms and rösti. For those with a bigger appetite, a mighty tomahawk steak, dry-aged for 28 days. The signature dish is a "Fleischvogel" based on Heiko Nieder's recipe, featuring farm bacon, morels, and mashed potatoes. We can also highly recommend the "White Asparagus Special" section. Asparagus king Caspar Ruetz picks the spears overnight in Baden. We particularly enjoyed the mild asparagus cream soup with smoked salmon rose and cipollini oil.