Ornellaia

2 Forchette

Gino Bordone's calling card? Ravioli! They are always absolutely excellent at Ristorante Ornellaia near Zurich's Bahnhofstrasse. And even better over Easter: instead of brasato, the chef once in a while fills the pleasant, not-too-thin dough with gitzi and tops it with a little umami bomb: a simply perfect veal jus. Tortelloni, ravioli, and occasionally an open raviolo are freshly prepared here twice a day. Gino Bordone is not a chef who just stands at the pass; he gets hands-on: "I love the morning in the restaurant. We make our pasta, and I always find time to look after our trainees." On the other side of the pass stands someone Gino knows well: his older brother Antonio, an experienced and prudent restaurant manager. Gino, formerly at Orsini, is serving as head chef for the first time, and the brothers are working together for the first time; success proves them right. Fixed menus are not offered at Ornellaia, run by the Bindella family. An extensive menu is presented, complemented by daily recommendations. Quite a daring creation, for instance: Involtini! A substantial piece of Canadian lobster is rolled into a juicy turbot fillet. A handful of clams accompany it, and as always at Ornellaia, a flawless white wine sauce. For the main course, the brothers recommend a tender Swiss veal medallion and bring spring to the plate: asparagus, morels, zucchini blossoms, porcini mushrooms. Pure harmony. There are a few dishes we always order here again: tartare made from sweet Gambero rosso, balanced with the acidity of citrus; "Finissima di Astice," a lobster carpaccio. The generous "Zuppa di pesce classico." The lamb cutlets. We are equally thrilled by the wine: Where else can you find a good Ornellaia vintage by the glass?