ORSINI

High quality cooking

Thirty-eight dishes must appear on the menu—that is the international standard for all-day dining restaurants in Mandarin Oriental hotels. Consequently, the Zurich location on Paradeplatz increased the number of dishes available for selection, which inevitably limited the effort that could be invested in each individual dish. As a result, the Filet Wellington, for instance, has unfortunately been removed from the menu. Fortunately, the reality that "more means less" here does not compromise the quality of the food. The summery Japanese hamachi en tigres de leche, boasting a highly appealing flavor profile and a refreshing cucumber-passion fruit sorbet, is straightforward yet simply outstanding. The beef tartare with lightly poached Gillardeau Oyster No. 2 and a truffle-coriander vinaigrette strikes a harmonious balance despite its unexpected pairing, while the braised lamb shank with potato espuma and spinach is a truly exceptional spoon dish. The only slight misstep occurs with the scallops served with candied Buddha’s hand and beurre blanc, where the salmon roe added to the sauce alongside N25 caviar disrupts the harmony with an overly pronounced fish flavor. The daily special features "Lièvre à la royale," consisting of braised hare, a thin layer of foie gras, Périgord truffle, a roasted jus with currants, Albufera sauce, and finally, venison loin from Alfred von Escher’s private larder. It showcases flawless classical technique executed at a high level. The desserts are crafted by acclaimed pastry chef Andy Vorbusch, and we immediately order two: the caramelized French toast with pear waffle sorbet and glazed fruits is just as refined and delicious as the cherry jelly accompanied by chestnut mousse and baked apple sorbet. P.S.: Executive Chef Benjamin Halat has left the Mandarin Oriental. Since its opening, celebrated chef Daniele Tortomasi has been heading the Brasserie kitchen.