Gault&Millau — 17
In the culinary cinema, EquiTable on Stauffacherstrasse in District 4 is the intellectual independent film. It is impressive what chef Julian Marti accomplishes with even the simplest ingredients and how he manages to bring out the most diverse facets of vegetables.
It begins with the amuse-bouches: among them, a carrot gazpacho with herb oil and chervil granité, and a beetroot macaron acidified with beetroot vinegar. This is followed by an excellent and light dish that Marti jokingly calls a "potato-cucumber salad": atop an emulsion of cucumber water and buttermilk lie a potato cream, pickled and grilled cucumbers, cornichons, dill, smoked whitefish roe, and a quenelle of horseradish glace; crunch is provided by chips made from cucumber peels! The enthusiasm continues with a variation on kohlrabi (braised and fermented) with lovage oil and preserved lemon pieces. The highlight features grilled white and green asparagus served with a wonderful asparagus beurre blanc, roasted hazelnuts, tarragon oil, fresh tarragon, and a dried beef entrecote supplied by Hatecke. Slightly more rustic are the gnocchi with confit tomatoes, spinach, smoked ricotta, and white tomato foam.
For the intermezzo, we spoon a ragout of Engadin mountain lamb with lamb tongue into a deep jus accompanied by potato foam, fried onions, and chives. Lamb also features in the main course: sous-vide cooked and grilled lamb loin with cornelian cherry and a herb crust. And lamb tartare on a crunchy base with merguez – served with onions and Jerusalem artichoke.
Instead of a standard cheese selection comes a sophisticated cheese course: a tartlet featuring various cheeses whipped into a foam, leek, fruit bread, dried pear, and leek ash. For refreshment, there is rhubarb and plum juice served in a sphere of frozen cocoa butter. And for dessert, rhubarb (braised and as a sorbet), yogurt foam, and oat crunch. Sandra Brack is the very likable hostess who recommends interesting wines, including a Hungarian cuvée of Furmint and Riesling from Moric (Hidden Treasures No. 3). Or a Danish rhubarb sparkling wine from Andersen Winery.