Scalottas - Terroir

For dining, Lucerners often went to the Schweizerhof. Primarily for the funeral repast following a memorial service at the nearby Hofkirche. Now you can also visit for other occasions: The Vico has opened, in a prime location and with a pleasant design. A "lifestyle brasserie" is promised, and you do get brasserie dishes: Sole for two, Chateaubriand for two, Entrecôte Café de Paris, and Wiener Schnitzel. The Schweizerhof owners, the Hauser family, are not born foodies. But at least they allowed their new director, Roman Omlin, to bring the project to life. With great fanfare, radio spots, and posters. So, straight into the venerable city hotel. The first impression is good. We receive a triangular-cut, truffled house pâté, surprisingly juicy, served with Banyuls jelly, a small salad, and Cumberland sauce. Other starters from the brasserie repertoire: Caesar salad, os à moelle (baked marrow bone), more tartare than we care for (five variations on one plate) – and, pleasantly, a modern touch as well: "Ceviche du Gothard," zander in a verjus-buttermilk jus with coriander and peperoncini. For the main course, the Coq au vin³ piques our imagination, even though the service warns us: "A modern interpretation." We get the thigh wonderfully old-school, with bacon and a rich sauce. The breast transforms into a crispy praline, accompanied by a rather dry chicken smashburger. The "modern interpretation" is already history; Lucerne guests prefer things classic. We enjoy bouillabaisse and were not disappointed. Lobster, turbot, scallops, shrimp, and mussels floated in the broth. A noble fish soup without any rough edges, rather of the well-behaved sort. The wine selection is pleasing. The Château Phélan Ségur 2021 was available by the glass from a jeroboam (3-liter bottle).