Le Guillaume Tell

For over 35 years, Denis Velen has worked alone in the kitchen of a tiny restaurant with a small terrace right in the heart of the Lavaux region. He has lost none of his enthusiasm or savoir-faire, and one marvels at how creatively he still cooks. An old favorite returned in the form of wasabi-infused cotton candy, setting an amusingly sweet-and-sour tone for the meal. Velen then crafted a refreshing, inventive gazpacho from butternut squash, chestnuts, and coffee, while grapefruit-cured salmon with black garlic and salicornia offered a delicately briny pleasure. The stunning duck liver "bonbon" with hibiscus jelly atop confit sauerkraut drew applause. Although the veal and tuna tartare with artichokes and truffled salt fondue espuma dominated the palate, the combination of scallops and Vaud-style saucisson was an absolute hit, as was the course featuring lemon raviolo, parsnip, and lemon. The quail duo was equally impressive—served once as a rich blood sausage with morels, and again as delicate thighs in a robust sauce. A captivating finale featured a lemon-ginger sorbet on tapioca alongside a chocolate moelleux with Peruvian chili and passion fruit. Outstanding wine recommendations were provided by the young sommelier Thibault Grillte.