Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville

Exceptional cuisine

We did the math: 50 (!) distinct dishes on the menu. And 24 female chefs (5) and male chefs working the line. That is unique in Switzerland. And rare anywhere in the world. What’s most impressive: Even when the perpetually booked dining room and the bustling kitchen are at maximum capacity, quality never falters. Every course is flawlessly executed; the interplay of acidity and temperature (cool, not cold) is captivating. Franck Giovannini, the fourth renowned chef to helm this prestigious former town hall in Crissier, sets the pace. With a sharp eye. With Zen-like composure. With a playful smile. It is currently hunting season. “Not every guest enjoys game,” Giovannini notes, “which is why we keep our regular menus available. We have plenty of chefs, so we manage just fine.” Still, “Le meilleur de la chasse” is peak season in Crissier. Tables are booked months ahead, and we completely understand why. This isn’t about standard roast venison or peppered stags. For the game weeks alone, 1,500 birds are hand-plucked, the wild boar (“Bête rousse”) takes center stage, and “Lièvre à la royale” is meticulously crafted over three days of intensive labor. Even the delicate ravioli contain meat from a young roe deer. Our personal favorites: a chamois loin from Les Diablerets VD, sliced tableside with theatrical flair, and the “Bécasse des bois en salmis.” The woodcock, presented atop a “Feuilleté gourmand,” leans toward the adventurous palate thanks to its robust flavor and inclusion of offal. We always order game at “Crissier,” even outside of hunting season. And each visit brings not only a profoundly flavorful 410-franc menu (boasting the highest food cost in the country!) but also frequent moments of quiet delight. Take menu item No. 63: “Papet vaudois à ma façon.” The most famous sausage in Romandy arrives lightly dusted with truffle, nestled inside a cabbage leaf. Then comes the dramatic reveal: elegant shavings of Périgord black truffle! The second showstopper in the “rustic yet sublime” category is the Jura pork knuckle. Franck Giovannini joins Frédy Girardet, Philippe Rochat, and Benoît Violier as the fourth legendary chef to elevate this humble classic to gourmet heights. Over three days of meticulous labor, using tweezers with surgical precision, the “Pied de porc” is painstakingly trimmed of excess fat. Onions and sweetbreads are added, paired flawlessly with one of the restaurant’s finest sauces—a rich Porto and Madeira reduction. Franck Giovannini has a particular fondness for seafood. He frequently travels to Normandy and Brittany to cultivate relationships with the region’s top fishermen and purveyors. Their reliable deliveries allow him to execute stunning creations: pen shells in a Dézaley wine sauce accompanied by three spoonfuls of caviar; scallops paired with an alluring, gently spiced Balti curry; and a “Turban de langoustines” dressed with fresh herbs. The standout moment arrives mid-menu: a “barbue” (the smaller cousin of turbot) is elegantly filleted tableside, then drizzled with a bold, innovative sauce—“Café de Paris”—adapted for seafood thanks to a fish-based fumet. At the adjacent table, a truffled Bresse poularde (from Miéral) is carved, while naturally, the prized sot-l’y-laisse is carefully pulled from the carcass. You can also count on the young, vibrant sommelier Charline Pichon. She expertly uncorks a Chenin Blanc from Geneva producer Nicolas Bonnet (Domaine de la Comtesse Eldegarde) alongside a Bordeaux classic: Château Pape Clément 2024, served in magnum format. Charline has overseen the establishment’s vast cellar for seven years. “She is incredible,” her boss remarks. We couldn’t agree more, which is why we’re proud to name her GaultMillau’s “Sommelière of the Year.” The “Hôtel de Ville” is a historic institution, having operated for 70 (!) years. Franck Giovannini has been part of the team for three decades, yet he remains acutely attuned to shifting social dynamics. Take the younger chefs, for instance: they enjoy a four-day workweek and extended weekend breaks, despite the restaurant being open five days a week. Only the proprietor and his two sous-chefs, Damien Facile and Filipe Fonseca Pinheiro, remain consistently on the line. A shortage of skilled culinary talent? “Not here,” Giovannini says with a grin, “applications are piling up.