Restaurant LA

High quality cooking

The success continues – the restaurant is packed to capacity during our visit. It is cramped and loud, but that obviously bothers nobody. There is no menu; the principle is "Chef's Choice". Naturally, diners are free to specify what they do not like. The monkfish arrives precisely seared, served with parsnip mousse, fresh herbs, and crisp trout roe. A harmonious trio, perfectly balanced. The fregola sarda is cooked al dente and accompanied by Romanesco broccoli and pine nuts. Unfortunately, an acid-forward vegetable broth overwhelms the typical pasta notes and reduces it to a simple soup garnish. As in the previous year, the sous-vide cooked salmon trout is on the menu. This time with an Asian twist: The delicate fish melts in the mouth, and miso provides just the right amount of heat. Black and white sesame seeds impart their nutty notes, while crunchy bean sprouts liven up this wonderful dish, along with fresh, intense coriander. The individual components of the next course are equally well-matched: The pink-seared duck breast is accompanied by two differently colored chili sauces, whose heat is mellowed by sweet potato purée. But: The duck is tough and mealy. Such poor quality has no place on the plate! A soothing conclusion follows with a Breton sablé. The interplay of sweet and sour, crispy and velvety smooth is perfect: coconut mousse, lychee, and gin sorbet tickle every taste bud. Conclusion: Good work is being done in the open show kitchen. However, anyone aiming to operate at this level must ensure that the entire package is right. With so many guests, more staff would be needed. During our visit, there were unnecessary delays.